More plants for Dry Shade (Part II)

by Sara Williams
Saskatchewan Perennial Society

Here are another half dozen plants that do well in shade that’s on the dry shade. Just remember to keep them evenly moist during their first year. And to mulch them to a depth of at least four inches with post peelings or clean straw.

Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana)

The genus name is from fraga, the classical Latin name for strawberry, derived from fragans meaning fragrant, alluding to the delightful smell of the fruit. Virginia is one of its many native habitats that include the temperate regions of both North and South America.

Strawberries are stoloniferous plants, which makes them so effective as ground covers. They have attractive compound leaves, white flowers in early summer, and of course, delectable fruit, mostly red. Our native strawberry, 10 to 15 cm (4-6 in.) high, makes an excellent ground cover with numerous runners.

Plant them in full sun to partial shade in a loamy soil rich in organic matter. Our native strawberry is quite drought tolerant once established. It is best used as  ground cover and is

easily propagated by runners and (more patiently) by seed.

False Solomon’s seal, star-flowered Solomon’s seal (Maianthemum stellatum, syn. Smilacina stellata)

Native to moist woodlands of a large portion of North America including parts of the Canadian prairies, false Solomon’s seal is surprisingly undemanding and moderately drought tolerant once established. It is best purchased from a nursery specializing in native plants. Accidentally transplanted, it has grown under pines on sandy soil in Sara’s garden for years.

The botanical names are descriptive. Maianthemum is from the Greek Maios, May, and athema, bloom, while stellatum means starlike and describes the form of the flower. About 30 cm (12 in.) high, plants produce single stems of alternate, lanceolate, stem-clasping leaves. Star-shaped, white flowers form on terminal racemes in May. Only 30 cm (12 in.) in height, the light green leaves turn golden in fall.

It spreads by creeping rhizomes to form colonies and is very much at home in a shade or woodland garden and also works very well as a ground cover in shade. Propagate by division.

Siberian barren strawberry (Waldsteinia ternata)

This is a plant that deserves much greater availability in our garden centres and nurseries. It’s tough, good looking, hardy, and adaptable to sun or shade. The common name, Siberian barren strawberry, speaks volumes: it’s ruggedly hardy, barren (do not expect it to produce fruit) and its leaves resemble those of the strawberry (glossy green leaves in clusters of three). Only 10 to 15 cm (4-6 in.) in height, it’s equally at home in sun or shade, with or without water. Small, bright yellow flowers bloom from late spring to early summer.

Western Canada violet (Viola canadensis)

Native to the woodlands of the prairie provinces, this is a hardy, enduring and attractive groundcover of 15 to 30 cm (6-12 in.) tall for dry shade. Fragrant white flowers with a yellow eye and distinct purple-pink veins appear in late spring and early summer above heart-shaped foliage.

‘Sem’ false spirea (Sorbaria sorbifolia)

A tough, hardy shrub, ‘Sem’ is a fairly recent addition to our arsenal of ground covers. It survives in deep shade with little water once established. It emerges in the spring with startling pink-orange-golden foliage mingled with lime green, brightening even the gloomiest shade. Pinnately compound leaves and white feathery flowers in late summer add to its landscape value. Up to 1 m (3 ft.) in height, it eventually forms a continuous understory (ideal below taller trees) through suckering. As attractive as the foliage appears in a nursery pot in spring, don’t be fooled into thinking that it will be well behaved in a shrub border. It will be out of bounds within a season. Use it as intended: as a ground cover.

Virginia creeper (Parthenoccissus quinquefolia)

The genus name echoes the common name: parthenos is the Greek word for virgin and kissos means ivy. (It was first introduced to England from the Virginia colony in 1629.) The species name describes the foliage: quinque means five and folia, leaf, thus the five leaflets that make up the compound leaf.

Although a vine, Virginia creeper also works as a groundcover, particularly on slopes. It is most admired for its brilliant scarlet fall foliage which will be somewhat subdued in shade. Hardy, fast growing and vigorous, it is drought-tolerant once established. It grows in sun or shade in most soils. Leafhoppers are sometimes present and powdery mildew can be a problem during periods of high humidity if air circulation is poor.

The large leaves (5-15 cm / 2-6 in.) are palmately compound, each with five toothed leaflets. The inconspicuous flowers are followed by small blue berries resembling grapes.

Sara Williams is the author and coauthor of many books including Creating the Prairie Xeriscape, Gardening Naturally with Hugh Skinner and, with Bob Bors, the recently published Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens. She continues to give workshops on a wide range of gardening topics throughout the prairies.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice

Raspberries part two: Flowing, Fruiting and Varieties

by Sara Williams

Raspberry flowers have both male and female parts and are self-fruitful meaning that two cultivars are not needed to set fruit. Flowering occurs over a four-week period and bees are the main pollinators. Avoid using insecticides.

Fruit takes 30 to 45 days to develop, depending on the cultivar and weather conditions. Since the greatest increase in fresh weight occurs in the final 7 to 10 days of fruit development, watering at this time is beneficial.

The fruit should be harvested when just ripe as no further ripening occurs once the berry is picked. Berries usually ripen in July or August. A ripe berry is red (without darker colouration), plump, firm and sweet and separates easily from the receptacle when picked. Raspberries reach a peak of maturity quickly, maintain top quality for a few days and then deteriorate. Fruit quality is usually highest at the beginning of the season when berries have a higher fresh weight than that of fruit produced later. They are very perishable and should be harvested early in the morning (but after dew has evaporated) and cooled immediately. Raspberries should be picked every 3 to 4 days.

Modern raspberry varieties include genetic material from both the Old and New World. Old World selections contribute good fruit quality and New World selections hardiness and tolerance of heat and cold.

The following are a few of the cultivars that have been developed specifically for prairie conditions. Other varieties are worth trying, but start with just a few to see if they will grow well for you in your location.

‘Boyne’ is one of the older but most frequently grown raspberries on the prairies. Developed at the Morden Agricultural Canada Research Station in Manitoba, it is hardy and consistently productive. Canes are medium height, thick, erect, and stocky, with many lateral branches. ‘Boyne’ suckers freely. Fruit is medium-sized (1.6 cm / 5/8 in. diameter), dark red, juicy, aromatic and tart. It is very good fresh or frozen and excellent for processing.

‘Red Mammoth’, from the University of Saskatchewan (1999), has firm juicy, bright red berries that are easily picked and produced over a long period. The fruit is larger  than ‘Boyne’ (2.15 cm / 7/8 in. diameter), sweeter, and higher yielding. It has good vigour and is hardier than ‘Boyne.’ The drawback: canes are less sturdy and require trellising for support.

‘Steadfast’, another University of Saskatchewan selection, has very little suckering, making it ideal for smaller urban gardens. The fruit quality is similar to ‘Boyne’. The round, bright red berries are easily detached, produce over a longer season, but are lower yielding. Cane sturdiness is similar to ‘Boyne’.

 ‘Red Bounty’, also from the University of Saskatchewan (1999) has large (1.99 mm / 0.8 in.), flavourful, round bright red fruit that is excellent for processing and easily detached for picking. Hardier than ‘Boyne’, the canes are of medium stature, but less sturdy and require support.

‘Honey Queen’, developed many years ago by Robert Erskine of Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, is a sweet, golden yellow berry with a unique taste, excellent for fresh eating and with ice cream. It does not freeze well but is said to make excellent wine.

Fall-bearing raspberries such as ‘Double Delight’ produce fruit late in their first season. Worthy of trial in a protected location if space permits, they are generally not reliable unless our growing season is prolonged without near or below-freezing temperatures.

Sara Williams, with Bob Bors, is the author of Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Raspberries part one: care

by Sara Williams
Saskatchewan Perennial Society

“There was a man in our town
And he was wondrous wise;
He jumped into a bramble bush
And scratched out both his eyes.” Mother Goose

Yes, they can be thorny, but there was a time when there was a raspberry row in every prairie garden. And why not? They’re hardy, easy to care for, generally insect and disease-free, making them well worth the effort. Nothing beats a handful of sun-kissed raspberries, fresh off the canes in July and August.

The genus name, Rubus, is from the Latin word for red, while the species name, idaeus, was named by Linnaeus to honor Mount Ida in Greece where raspberries were believed to have originated and where the Greek gods were said to have gone berry picking. 

The red raspberry is native to temperate regions of North America, Europe and Asia. Wild raspberries were gathered in the wild for thousands of years before they were grown in gardens. The Greeks and the Romans used them medicinally before they were commonly eaten as a fruit. By the 16th century, they were a common plant in English gardens, and European settlers brought raspberry selections with them when they arrived in North America.

Raspberries should remain productive for ten to twenty years, so careful site selection and soil preparation is important. A good loam-based soil in full sun is recommended. Ensure that the soil is weed-free (especially of perennial weeds like quack grass) and well amended with organic matter (e.g. compost, peat moss, well-rotted manure). Provide shelter from wind and avoid low-lying, frost-prone or poorly drained areas.

Plant in the spring as plants break dormancy fairly early. This also allows a healthy root system to develop during their first year. Canes should be set at the same depth or up to 5 cm (2 in.) deeper than they were previously planted. Space the raspberry canes about 23 cm (9 in.) apart within the rows, with rows 90 cm (3 ft.) apart. Water immediately after planting. Within three years, a continuous “hedgerow” should develop.

Do not allow the canes to dry out during their establishment year. In subsequent years, water your raspberries from bud development through to fruiting. They’ll require about 2.5 cm (1 in.) of water per week from first bloom to last harvest. After August, water only enough to prevent stress on the newly formed canes. Once canes have entered dormancy in late fall, give them one final watering prior to freeze-up.

There is a direct relationship between fruit yield and the vigor and diameter of the canes – the thicker the canes, the larger the fruit. Therefore, it is important to promote vigorous cane growth early in the growing season with consistent watering and a spring application of a high phosphorous fertilizer such as 16-20-0.

Control weeds through shallow (5-8 cm / 2-3 in.) cultivation. Raspberries have a fibrous, long-lived perennial root system. Remember, 70% of the root system is within the top 25 cm (10 in.) of the soil surface and deep or careless cultivation may damage the roots. Avoid cultivation once fruit begins to form in mid- to late June.

A better option than cultivation for controlling weeds is mulching (placing a permanent 10 cm / 4 in. layer of organic material on the soil surface between the rows). Weed-free straw, post peelings, leaves and grass-clippings will all do the job. Besides weed control, other advantages of using mulch include moisture conservation, decreased daily soil temperature fluctuation and cleaner picking. Apply the mulch in the fall following the first season of establishment.

Depending on the cultivar, raspberries may be grown in unsupported hedgerows or with the support of a trellis made of poles and wires. Trellises are used when canes are very tall, weak, or simply to make picking easier.

Most raspberries have a biennial growth habit. First year (“primocane”) growth is rapid and vegetative (leafy), taking place in spring and early summer. These canes are mostly unbranched. During their second year, these canes (now called “floricanes”) flower and fruit. Buds in the middle portion of the cane are the most fruitful. Canes do not increase in height during their second year, and after fruiting, they die. At the same time, new canes are produced to replace them for the coming season.

There are a number of reasons to prune raspberries. If left uncontrolled, plantings become jungle-like with fruit in the centre often going unpicked. Keep the row width to 30-45 cm (12-18 in.). Suckers are usually initiated in the fall, when they grow only to the soil surface. Additional above-ground growth of the suckers occurs the following spring. Each spring, remove the small, thin, less productive canes, produced randomly from the roots (further from the established row). Also remove last year’s fruiting canes – these canes will be have side branches (alternatively, this can be done in fall following harvest). Keep the vigorous, more productive canes that are produced from the crown at the base of the plant. Aim for 15 canes of 1.3 cm (0.5 in.) or greater diameter per meter (40 in.). Thinning increases yield, berry size and berry quality on the remaining canes.

Sara Williams, with Bob Bors, is the author of Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Gardening with the pits

by Sara Williams
Saskatchewan Perennial Society

Kitchens tend to be busy places during the winter. It’s also the time of year when we’re most apt to savour the exotic. What doesn’t go into the compote, need not end up in the compost. Kitchen propagation with your kids with the pits can be an opportune learning experience.

Once you’ve prepared your guacamole,wash and dry the large avocado seed. Plant it with the small pointed end poking up through the soil. The soil should be kept moderately moist without being overly wet, but never be allowed to dry out. You probably won’t get the medium size tree native to South and Central America, but you should be able to produce a respectable house plant.

An alternative method, that also can be used with mangoes and sweet potatoes, involves toothpicks. Insert three toothpicks into the side of the seed about 1/8 inch deep, as in the spokes of a wheel, and carefully suspend the seed over the rim of a glass of water so that an inch and a half of the pit is submerged in the water. Don’t allow it to dry out. Once the roots develop, transplant it to soil.

Place the container in bright light, but out of direct sun, until the roots and shoots emerge. Be patient, this may take a few months. Then move it to full sun. To encourage branching, pinch out the central stem when the plant is about 15 cm (6 in.) high. Expect fairly rapid growth from this point on.

Mangoes, large trees native to India, are grown in a similar manner to avocados but can be more difficult. Plant the seed with the eye or bud facing up, just covering it with loose soil, or use the toothpick method. Keep it warm and moist. The young leaves may be red but will change to green on maturity.

Sweet potatoes, long cultivated in Central America, can be grown by the soil or toothpick method, but use the entire tuber with half of it submerged. First, wash it off thoroughly to remove any growth inhibitors that may have been applied to keep them from sprouting in the grocery store. (This in itself could make a good consumer education project. Try this with one washed, the other not.) Place it in full sun. Roots and shoots will develop into a luxurious vine and it will continue to grow until it has exhausted the resources of the tuber. At that point, the new shoots can be used as cuttings: root them in sand and then plant them in a soil mix.

Pineapples are members of the large tropical bromeliad family, originating in South America and the West Indies. First brought to European attention by Christopher Columbus, they are the only member of this family that bears edible fruit, and one of the few with its feet stuck firmly in soil – the vast majority of bromeliads spend their life perched on trees as epiphytes. Select a pineapple that is relatively large and with the freshest crown of leaves in the store. Remove the top (including the green leaves) together with about an inch of the fruit, trimming away the soft sweet parts and leaving the hard stringy tissue. Allow the cut surface to dry for a few days to form a callus layer to prevent decay. Plant the top in sand, keeping it evenly moist but not overly wet. Bromeliads naturally collect water in their central “vase”. Move it to a well drained soil mix in full sun once it has rooted.

Oranges, lemons and grapefruit can also be grown from seed, sowing them about 2 cm (1/2 in.) deep. I stuck some in a large pot in which a mature fig tree was already growing and simply forgot about them. Expect germination within 6 weeks. They like a rich soil in a deep pot in full sun but seem to handle benign neglect very well. They’ll grow into large shrubs with shiny leaves.

Besides the hands-on experience, these projects can involve a trip to your local library to find out more about these plants and their native habitats. But don’t expect your labour to bear fruit. These plants seldom produce indoors unless provided with cross-pollination and/or conservatory-like conditions.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

What is the Best Potato to Grow?

By Jackie Bantle

“What is the best potato to grow?” is one of the most common questions that I often hear from eager vegetable gardeners.  According to the World Catalogue of Potato Varieties (co-edited by Lukie Pieterse and Uwe Hils), there are at least 4500 cultivated varieties of potatoes in over 100 countries around the world.  The best potato for you to grow depends on the end use.

Potato cultivars typically found in Saskatchewan can be organized into one of four categories: white, russet, red or novelty.  Red skinned potato varieties are recommended for boiling since their flesh is usually more watery.  Russet varieties generally have more solids/tuber and usually become mushy when boiled.  Potatoes that are high in solids are preferred for frying as they use less oil.  The cooking qualities of white skinned and novelty potatoes are dependent on the variety. 

Traditional potato varieties on the Prairies have included mainstays like Russet Burbank (formerly known as ‘Netted Gem’).  Russet Burbank has a dry texture and is excellent as a baking potato or French fry but often turns mushy when boiled.  Growing Russet Burbank can be challenging in a dry climate like the Prairies as this variety is prone to hollow heart (i.e. holes in the centre of the potato) and knobs when moisture conditions fluctuate during the growing season.  Better choices for drier fleshed potatoes that are good for baking or French fries include Goldrush, Gemstar Russet, Umatilla and Ranger Russet.   

Pontiac was the traditional ‘red-skinned’ potato variety grown on the Prairies for many years.  Pontiac is early maturing, recommended for boiling and usually produces excellent yields of large sized tubers.  However, Pontiac is also known for its intense scab problems, hollow heart and deep eyes. 

Norland (red skin) was registered as a variety in 1960 and is still one of the most popular red potato varieties for Prairie gardeners.  Norland’s skin is a brighter red than Pontiac and does not oversize as quickly as the Pontiac.  Norland is early maturing, somewhat resistant to scab and has excellent boiling qualities. 

Other red skinned potato cultivars recommended for the Prairie garden include; Viking (early maturing, oversize tubers late in the season), Sangre (mid-season maturing, excellent boiling, medium sized tubers) and AC Peregrine (mid to late season maturity, uniform size and shape, resistant to scab, the best storage variety of the reds).

Two purple skinned cultivars with bright white flesh that perform well in the Prairie garden are Purple Viking (early-maturing, large tubers and excellent flavour) and Caribe (mid-season maturity with good flavour). 

Shepody is an excellent flavoured white skinned potato recommended for boiling, French frying and baking.  Shepody tends to produce oversize tubers later in the season and is susceptible to scab and hollow heart.  Adora, an early-maturing, light yellow fleshed potato is recommended for boiling and baking. 

Yukon Gold (good yields, boiling, bake or fried) and Bintje (late maturing with excellent yields of small to medium sized potatoes) are deeper yellow fleshed cultivars recommended for their flavour. 

Some unique potato varieties to try include: Banana or French Fingerling (long to banana-shaped, small, yellow-fleshed tubers), Russian  Blue (purple skin and purple flesh) or All Red (red skin and red flesh). 

Always plant certified potato seed, preferably seed that is grown locally.  Purchasing local potato seed grown by experienced Saskatchewan seed potato growers reduces the risk of spreading devastating potato and soil diseases. 

Although it is tempting to plant potato tubers early, if the soil is too cold (below 10°C), certain fungal diseases can rot seed tubers in the ground or result in disease issues like rhizoctonia (the black ‘dirt’ that won’t wash off your potatoes at harvest time). 

To get an early start on potatoes without risking disease issues, try green sprouting your potato seed tubers.  At least 10-14 days before planting out, spread potato tubers out in a single layer in a brightly lit location.  Ideally, the air temperature should be near 20°C with high humidity.  Warm temperatures will encourage the potatoes to sprout while bright light will prevent the sprouts from elongating.  Higher humidity prevents the potato tubers from drying out.  Potato tuber sprouts should be less than 2.5cm long, dark green in color and may have small leaves forming.  These green sprouted potato seeds will have been growing for two weeks under ideal conditions indoors before being placed outside in the warm soil (15°C+).  When planting outdoors, take care not to break off the developing sprouts.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Planting a tree – Part II – Putting it in the ground!

by Sara Williams

Once the hole as been prepared, set the root ball on top of the mound, spreading out the roots so that they grow away from the trunk and as horizontally as possible. The trunk flare should be even with the natural grade of the soil. In areas of poor drainage, it can be an inch or so higher. Prior to backfilling, ensure that the tree is upright and straight with its “best face forward” facing where it will be viewed.

Once the tree has been positioned, backfill the hole, tamping it gently to remove large air pockets and to ensure than the roots are in firm contact with the soil of their new home. Then form a low “dike” or berm of several inches of soil around the outer perimeter of the planting hole to act as a well or catchment basin so that when watered, the water will stay where it is intended, and percolate downward to the roots rather than run off.

Water the area within your dike slowly and thoroughly, to the depth of the root ball and a few inches into the soil below. The object is to gently settle the soil and to encourage deeper and wider rooting.

Fertilizer is seldom needed. In over forty years I have NEVER fertilized a tree and many are now towering specimens of 40 to 50 ft or more.

Staking is seldom necessary unless the area is extremely windy and unsheltered. Research has shown that non-staked newly planted trees establish faster and produce stronger roots compared to staked trees. Most trees do not need to be staked.

Next, mulch! Over the course of those many trees and decades, I have gone through about a dozen semi-truck loads of mulch. I used mainly post peelings (the bark and other stuff that is peeled off in the manufacture of fence posts) from our northern mills. It is applied at a depth of about four inches over the soil surface, up to and including the dike. Depending on weather, it generally lasts three to four years.

[An interesting aside? A friend who comes to pick mushrooms, one day mentioned that many of the ones that she finds in “the pasture” (now a forest) are native to the boreal forest and should not be here. Our guess – the spores came with the post peelings and settled in.]

Once mulched, I have found that a thorough and deep watering once a week through the first growing season works well. Don’t hurry and skimp. For a few summers I hired my neighbour’s grandchildren to do the watering of a few hundred newly planted trees. Their instructions? I would provide a lawn chair and a kitchen timer. They were to bring a book. They were to set the timer for 8-10 minutes per tree, watering with a very long (600 ft) hose from the well, and then move to another tree. It was summer, so I did not demand a book review…This system worked well.

After the first season, water thoroughly every 2 weeks or as needed. (Feel under the mulch to see if it is moist or dry.) By the third season, they should be well established and on their own.

Sara Williams is the co-author, with Bob Bors, of Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Plant a tree – or thousands! Preparation

by Sara Williams

My first serious tree planting began after I moved to a then treeless bromegrass pasture of five acres south of Saskatoon over forty years ago. Purchased in the winter, I had no idea of what the soil was like. And after the heavy clay soil of a Sutherland home, I was not quite sure what to do with the almost pure sand of the acreage. Friends commented on the somewhat “rolling terrane” of the back pasture – so sandy that it had indeed blown to form a few small undulating dunes during the dry dirty thirties.

Guidelines for planting trees have changed somewhat over those four decades but the principles remain. Many of the problems associated with tree planting come from letting them dry out between the time of purchase and the time of planting, encircling roots, placing the tree at the wrong depth, too small a planting hole or unnecessary staking.

Although it might seem counter-intuitive, adding an overabundance of organic amendments to the planting home, especially in a heavy clay soil, may result in the roots never leaving the hole to venture out into the surrounding soil.

The ideal planting time is spring as it provides the longest time frame for the tree to become established. Summer also works as long as attention is paid to weather that is too hot, too dry or too windy and the tree is watered accordingly. Early fall is also an option – as long as the tree is in active growth but has enough time to harden off (cease growth and prepare for winter) in its new home.

Most trees do best in full sun and well-drained soil. Before planting, check with utility companies to avoid placing trees on top of hidden underground utilities. And look up to ensure they will not be growing into overhead utility lines.

Small trees are usually sold in containers while larger ones may be “balled and burlapped.” Large orders of smaller trees may be bare-rooted. Always handle trees by their lower trunks.

When removing the tree from its container, minimal damage occurs if this is done while the tree and container are laying on their side. If balled-and-burlapped, remove all wrapping materials. Soak the root ball for a few hours in (preferably) lukewarm water. If any roots are circling, spiraling or girdling the root ball or growing inward, they should be straightened out so they grow away from the root ball, not into it or around it. If gently re-positioning the roots does not work, then cut them off with a sharp pruner. Consider this a “kind cut”. New roots will quickly form and be heading in the right direction. If left to grow inward or circle around, they will in effect strangle themselves. At the time of planting, only prune dead, diseased or broken branches.

Trees should be planted at the same depth at which they were grown in their container or in the nursery field, at a mid-point in the “trunk flare.” This is where the trunk bulges or broadens slightly before the roots begin. It is important that the trunk is above the soil line and the roots below the soil line.

I found the most success on my sandy soil when digging a generous planting hole. Take a cue from the lyrics of Michael, Row Your Boat Ashore, “The Jordan River is deep and wide, Hallelujah!”  Sing while you dig and dig both deep and wide. The depth of the planting hole should be about four inches deeper than the depth of the root ball; the width at least twice that of the root ball. Err on the side of generosity. If needed, place a mound of soil on the bottom of the planting hole to ensure that the planting level is neither too high nor too deep.

Recommendations have changed a bit in forty years, but if your soil is predominantly sand, adding moderate amounts of organic amendments such as compost, peat moss or composted manure to the soil in the planting hole will help to retain moisture.  Otherwise, go with the soil that you have.

Next – Part 2 – Planting!

Sara Williams is the co-author, with Bob Bors, of Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Add colour to your spring and fall landscape with Majestic Skies northern pin oak – an ideal shade tree

Erl Svendsen
Saskatchewan Perennial Society

I spent most of my childhood in places where the fall canvas was painted with bright splashes of reds and oranges with a few daubs of yellow. The prairie region is just the opposite – a sea of yellows with occasional, and somewhat short-lived oranges and reds. Majestic Skies northern pin oak (Quercus ellipsoidalis ‘Bailskies’) can help change that.

Part of the problem is that there are relatively few hardy and attractive landscape worthy tree species available on the prairies. Most have been introduced from other parts of the world. There are a few native species (green ash, bur oak, American elm), but even these were not widespread across the prairies originally and come with a host of insect pests and diseases. The Western Nursery Growers Group recognized these problems and the risk our urban landscape faces with the introduction of just a single pest or disease: bronze birch borer, emerald ash borer, Dutch elm disease, fire blight and black knot, to name a few. For example, only two years ago, Saskatoon lost many of its Mancana and black ash to the cottony psyllid combined with an unfavourable winter.  The Group’s plan was to test new cultivars and species in four location representing the major climatic and soil zones across the region. They named their program Prairie T.R.U.S.T (Testing of Rural and Urban Shade Trees)*. To receive a Recommended rating, a tree must be hardy, have high to complete resistance to insect pests and disease, and be adapted to a wide range of Prairie soils. And not only this, but it must be good looking to as well!

One of their Recommended cultivars across all test sites is Majestic Skies northern pin oak. This is an outstanding tree for many reasons. The show starts in spring as pointy-tipped, lobed leaves emerge brick red, gradually shifting to a glossy dark green. In the fall, they transform again to become a resplendent red, contrasting nicely with their surrounding landscape. Like other oaks (e.g. bur oak), their flowers and acorns are not particularly noteworthy (except when in contact with your lawn mower). After the leaves take their final bow in the fall, the furrowed grey bark and silvery branches add attractive dimensions to the winter scene.

Northern pin oak is no shrinking violet – at maturity it can reach 18 metres (60 feet) in height by 14 metres (45 feet) wide with a pyramid-oval canopy. Majestic Skies has straighter and more even sized branches than its native North American kin, making for a relatively uniform canopy.  Its size and shape make it an ideal shade tree, even without its bright spring and fall colour display! But, because of its mature size, take care not to plant it too close to your house or under powerlines. As it grows, remove the lower branches to allow people to walk underneath without threat of losing an eye or their sunhat. Plant it in full sun to partial shade in deep well-drained soil. Although drought tolerant, it prefers evenly moist soil. It is not too particular to soil type, but in very alkaline soils, leaves may become chlorotic (yellow with green veins).  Because of its size and adaptability to Prairie conditions, you can grow it as a specimen tree for shade, massed in a larger landscape (parks, acreages), as part of a shelterbelt to control wind and reduce noise, or in a wildlife planting. It has a medium growth rate and should live for at least a century – you’re planting it as much for yourself as for your children and grandchildren.

*Visit the Prairie T.R.U.S.T website (www.prairietrees.ca) to see all recommended trees from their trial for your region.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and tweets about it on occasion @ErlSv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

To till or not to till

by Bernadette Vangool

No-till gardening is a technique in which the gardener mimics nature by adding organic matter to the surface of the soil. In nature, leaves fall and grasses and flowers die off. They are incorporated into the soil by millions of little creatures, fungus, bacteria and others large and small. These organisms work continuously to turn dead organic matter into nutrients which feed the new growth of plants in the immediate area.

In contrast, the till method incorporates organic matter into the soil directly by tilling or manual digging. Tilling disrupts the cycle of fungal, bacterial and insect activity and thus creates an imbalance in the existing ecosystem. In the short term, the till method results in more immediate greater productivity, while the no-till method enriches the soil with organic matter over a longer period of time.

No-till gardening is a relatively new phenomenon. Traditional gardening has usually depended on the till method. People who grew up with the till  method, which has been very successful for them, are reluctant to change and adopt new ways. Both methods have pros and cons and perhaps the best course of action is to adopt a portions of both methods in your garden practices.

Soil is improved over time when covered with at least 4 inches of organic material which decomposes slowly and is incorporated naturally. However,  it is difficult to germinate small seeds in a deep mulch. Mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in spring, an advantage in perennial gardens as it protects plants from late spring frost damage. For the vegetable gardener, facing an already limited number of frost free days in our climate, it shortens the growing season even further. For those of us with heavy clay soils, it may take years to “soften” the soil.

The major disadvantage of simply tilling soils is that they do not retain moisture as well. It can also lead to water run off, resulting in the leaching of soil nutrients, and general erosion. Tilling, while breaking up the soil structure, may bring the larvae of beneficial and not so beneficial insects to the surface, thus eradicating pests by interrupting their life cycle. But weed seeds will also be disturbed and given an opportunity to germinate and flourish in the upcoming growing season. Either method of gardening will see a reduction of unwanted weeds over time, assuming that weed control is practiced by pulling, deadheading and mulching.

Making the transition from conventional tilling to a more sustainable method of gardening may take some adjustments. It helps to define your garden beds by creating permanent pathways. These should be covered with mulch to discourage weeds. In a smaller garden, planting boxes can be constructed to easily define the vegetable beds. Defining these areas gives you the freedom to mix it up a bit. For example, vegetables with large seeds such as corn, peas and beans as well as crops that are transplanted into the garden, can be planted in the no-till beds with the heavy mulch. The small seeded crops such as lettuce, carrots and spinach can go in the tilled beds that provide easier germination. The tilled beds can be rotated throughout your garden to discourage pests from invading sections of your garden over time. This includes the dreaded slugs, which seem to be more prevalent as more and more people are switching to no-till. Pick a sunny day in spring or fall, till your garden and let the pests bask in the sunshine until the birds find them.

Whichever method of gardening you decide to embrace, don’t skimp on the inputs. Every garden benefits from copious amounts of well rotted manure and compost, and a good regimen of watering. Happy gardening everyone!

The opinions expressed above are those of the writer, a long term member of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Perennial geraniums that tough it out

Sara Williams

Perennial geraniums (Geranium spp.) go by the common names of cranesbill or geranium. (These are not to be confused with the annual bedding plant, also called a geranium, but in the genus Pelargonium.). The genus Geranium includes more than three hundred species widely distributed in the temperate regions of the world. Only about a dozen of these have proven reliably hardy on the Canadian prairies, but though small in number, they have become a mainstay of our gardens.

Geranium comes from the Greek geranos, meaning crane, referring to the seed capsule that resembles the beak of a crane. The seeds are forcibly expelled from the capsule, scattering them widely.

In mounds or mats ranging in height from 20 to 60 cm (8-24 in.) or more, geraniums have mostly basal-lobed or divided leaves. The five-petaled, cup-shaped flowers appear singly or in clusters, mostly in early and mid-summer, in pastel shades of pink, blue, and purple as well as red, magenta and white. They are long-lived and long-flowering.

Generally of easy care, perennial geraniums do well in ordinary but well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. Many are moderately drought-tolerant once established. They may be pruned back after flowering for a neater appearance. Most are well placed in a border or rock garden. Some make excellent ground covers. They are easily increased through spring division, by terminal cuttings, or by seed.

Lilac cranesbill (G. himalayense) is native to Sikkum, India, and spreads by short rhizomes. It has some of the largest flowers of all species, lilac-blue to deep blue with purple veins, and is from 30 to 50 cm (12-20 in.) in height. It blooms in summer.

‘Johnson’s Blue’ (G. himalayense x G. pratense) was selected in 1950 by A. T. Johnson of North Wales, who wrote A Garden in Wales (1927). It is very hardy and dependable but somewhat sprawling. It is 30 to 45 cm (12-18 in.) high with 4 to 5 cm (1.6-2.0 in.) blue flowers, borne profusely over a long period in late spring and early summer. It spreads by stolons and is better used as a ground cover. Sterile, it sets no seeds.

Iberian cranesbill (G. ibericum) is native to Turkey and the Caucasus. It is 45 cm (18 in.) in height, vigorous, hardy and drought tolerant, with upward-facing, violet-blue flowers with notched petals in early summer. It can become somewhat weedy and is best used as a ground cover.

Big root geranium (G. macrorrhizum), native to the subalpine woodlands and rock scree of the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of Europe, was introduced to England by 1576. The word macrorrhizum means big root and, like the common name, refers to the thick, fleshy rhizomes, which soon form dense, weed-proof mats. It forms a wide-spreading, bushy mound of 20 to 40 cm (8-15 in.), with pink flowers from late spring to early summer. The lobed, aromatic foliage, which turns red in the fall, was once used medicinally, for tanning, as well as for oil of geranium in the perfume industry-its fragrance is very distinctive when the leaves are crushed. It is both shade and drought tolerant. ‘Ingwersen’s Variety’ has pink, darker veined flowers, 5 cm (2 in.) in diameter. ‘Album’ has white flowers with pink to red calyxes. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ is reddish purple and about 30 cm (12 in.) in height.

Bloody cranesbill or blood red geranium (G. sanguineum) is native to the sea cliffs and sand dunes of England as well as Europe and western Asia. Originally grown for medicinal purposes, it was once used as a healing salve. It forms sturdy clumps or low mounds of dark green, deeply divided foliage, 20 to 45 cm (8-18 in.) in height with a 60 cm (24 in.) spread. Solitary, magenta-red flowers bloom from late spring to early summer. The dark green foliage turns rusty orange to red in fall. Its tough, fleshy rhizomes lend it drought tolerance. It is well placed in a rock garden or used as a ground cover.

‘Album’ is white and a bit taller with a looser habit. ‘Alpenglow’ is 20 cm (8 in.) high with vivid rose-red flowers. ‘Lancastriense’ (syn. var. ‘Striatum’) is a dwarf plant, forming a prostrate mound of 25 to 30 cm (10-12 in.), with pale, salmon pink flowers with deeper pink veins, blooming for a long season. ‘Max Frei’, a German introduction, is a compact plant of only 20 to 25 cm (8-10 in.) with reddish-purple to deep magenta flowers and good autumn foliage colour. ‘New Hampshire Purple’, 20 to 30 cm (8-12 in.) in height, has purple flowers in early summer and bronzy fall foliage.

Sara Williams is the co-author, with Bob Bors, of Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Growing your own vegetable transplants

By Jackie Bantle

As you look forward to spring and warmer weather, its time to start exercising those green thumbs.  Consider growing your own transplants for your garden.  The excitement and challenge of planting seeds, waiting for them to emerge and caring for the tiny plants until they are ready to be released to the outdoors is an excellent late winter activity for children and adults.  Growing your own transplants also enables you to grow vegetable cultivars that might not be available at your local greenhouse.  It is time to start planting some of those seeds! 

Vegetables that must be transplanted in order to mature during our relatively short growing season include:  tomatoes, peppers, celery, eggplant, Spanish onions, leeks and Brussels sprouts.  Vegetables that benefit from transplanting in the Prairie garden but are not required to be transplanted include: cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, melons, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and corn. 

Not all vegetables should be seeded immediately.  Some vegetable seed takes longer to germinate or, grows very slowly once it has germinated.  Other vegetables dislike having their roots disturbed and are best transplanted outdoors when they are only 1-2 weeks old.     

The following table summarizes seeding dates for common vegetables that are transplanted.

Vegetable TypeDate to SeedSeeding Depth (cm)
PepperMarch 150.5
TomatoMarch 300.5
EggplantMarch 300.5
CeleryMarch 10Cover very lightly – celery seeds need light to germinate
Spanish OnionsMarch 200.5
LeeksMarch 100.5
Brussels sprouts and other brassica cropsApril 100.25
Vine crops, cornMay 71
Photo Submitted
The following table summarizes seeding dates for common vegetables that are transplanted.

Vine crops and corn do not like to have their roots disturbed.  Grow these transplants in a Jiffy 7 peat pellet or a biodegradable container.  Both the container and the Jiffy 7 can be planted directly in the ground without disturbing the plant roots:  the developing roots will grow through the netting or the container. 

A few basic guidelines for growing your own transplants indoors will help ensure success. 

1) Use a commercially prepared media that has a mix of peat, vermiculite and perlite.  Garden soil is NOT recommended for any container since it does not drain properly and can be a source of insects and disease.

2) Containers should be clean and must have drainage holes in the bottom to ensure excess water drains away; thereby preventing root rot diseases.

3) Adequate lighting is crucial for growth of healthy transplants.  Supplemental lighting will be necessary.  Grow-lights can be purchased at most garden centers.  Place the lights 30-45 cm above the seedlings for 12-14 hours per day.  To test if the lighting is sufficient, the shadow cast on a white piece of paper at midday by an object 10-15cm above the paper should have a definite outline.

4)  Most commercial medias contain very few nutrients.  Apply a water soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer once/week.  Mix according to label directions.

The ideal transplant has a good root system but is not root bound.  The stem will be strong and the internodes between the sets of leaves will be small.  Transplants that are too tall will tend to break and dry out more easily once planted out into the garden.  To control transplant height, lightly brush the tops of the plants with a wooden stick or a rolled up towel or, place an oscillating fan approximately 3 feet from the transplants for 6 to 8 hours/day.  The gentle brushing or the gentle breeze will tend to decrease transplant height and strengthen stems. 

A large difference between day and night temperatures can also result in elongated transplants.  Warm days followed by cool nights tend to increase the internode length, resulting in ‘stretched’ plants.  Aim to keep the day and night temperatures within several degrees of each other to help minimize the length between internodes.

‘Damping Off’ is a fungal disease that can be a problem when starting seedlings.  Symptoms include poor seed germination or water-soaked, soft spots on the stem just above the soil line in newly emerged seedlings.  The seedlings topple over where the stem has become constricted.  No treatment is available for Damping Off.  Prevent the disease by using clean pots, providing adequate air movement around seedlings and resisting overcrowding seedlings. 

Good luck growing your transplants.  Spring will be here before we know it!

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

A walk on the wild side

by Jill Thomson

When we are introducing new plants to our gardens, growing conditions should be matched to plant preferences – soil type, drainage, hours of direct sunlight, amount of shade, proximity to other plants, shelter from wind, etc. Recently, I have realized that observing plants in their native habitat helps with choosing their placement in my garden. One of my favourite and frequent places to walk our dogs is at Chief Whitecap Park (CWP), south of Saskatoon. The park has a wide range of habitats, particularly if you walk through the undisturbed native prairie at the south end and then into the transition zone between the river bank and the river woodland, where prairie shrubs are found. You can scramble down the steep bank and walk along the river’s edge, then walk through the woodland in the valley before taking a path back up to the grassland. There are many beautiful native plants that bloom from the end of the first snow in the spring to the frosts and snow of fall. I have made notes and taken photos of the flowers that bloom sequentially throughout the season.

Many people walk through the park to see the prairie crocus (Anemone patens var. multifida) that flowers in the undisturbed prairie at the south end, even when we have a late snowfall. This plant needs to grow in undisturbed soil that is not shaded, and does not usually do well in a traditional garden. However, I have included its Latin name, because the native plant has been crossed with a European species (Anemone pulsatilla) and their hybrid offspring are a great addition to the garden.

Another favourite early flowering prairie plant is the three-flowered avens (Geum triflorum) and it is this plant that clued me in to taking notice of where plants like to grow. I had planted a specimen at the edge of my north-facing front yard, close to the sidewalk. It grew well for about 5 years but gradually died out as the rest of the garden grew taller and even the edge became shaded. Now I enjoy seeing it flourish in the open, sunny areas of the prairie area.

Liatris and Penstemon species are both showy, flowering plants that need to grow in full sun, and both can be seen flowering at CWP in the open grassy areas in mid-summer.

There are several plants that can do well in most conditions, and the wild rose (Rosa species) is an excellent example. Short stemmed plants are found in the sunny locations, with flowers varying from white through various shades of pink.

When growing in shaded areas, including the edges of the woodland and the denser underbrush in the river valley, the stems grow longer, reaching up in the canopy, and the flowers tend to be a darker, more vivid pink.

These may be different species, found in the differing habitats (e.g., prickly rose [Rosa acicularis ssp. sayi] in prairie habitats and Wood’s rose [Rosa woodsii var. woodsii] in treed habitats).

This type of rose can flourish under similar conditions in the garden, mine has grown well at the edge of my overgrown front yard for at least 25 years.

Honeysuckle (Lonicera species), fleabanes (Erigeron species) and lilies (Lilium species), are all plants that are usually found at the edge of wooded areas along the river bank. Relatives of these species will also do well in the semi-shaded areas of your garden.
In the woodland area, on the banks and along the river valley, you can find plants that might do well in shaded areas of your garden, but remember to see what moisture conditions they prefer.

Two-leaved Solomon’s seal (Maianthemum canadense), bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) and wild sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis) are all common understory plants. There is also a small patch of pink wintergreen (Pyrola asarifolia) I have seen beside one of the paths and I hope to buy some plants to try in my garden in 2021.

I have only mentioned a few of the many flowering plants you will see when walking in this park, and other native habitats.
An excellent reference book for identifying native plants that might do well in your garden is “Native plants for the short season yard” by Lyndon Penner.

Please remember that you should not dig up native plants from natural areas for two reasons. First, transplants may perform poorly and die within a short period as garden conditions are so different from where they were recently growing.

Second, you are creating an area of disturbance that will allow weeds to get a foothold. Rather, buy from reputable garden centres specializing in native plants that have grown plants from seed collected in a sustainable manner.

Jill Thomson is a plant disease specialist (retired) who enjoys walking her dogs at Chief Whitecap Park.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Hosta of the Year 2021: ‘Rainbow’s End’

by Erl Svendsen

Hostas are the workhorses of a shade garden. They add colour, texture and interest. Most are hardy, take little care, have few pests on the Prairies and are well-behaved by staying where they’ve been planted. Hostas range in size from dwarfs to giants; leaf colour in blues, greens, yellows, whites/creams and in variegated combinations; leaves may be smooth, shiny, glaucus, wrinkly (reticulated), long and skinny, or wide and rounded; and flower colour is mostly limited to shades of pink, lavender and purple. 

But with 1000s of available cultivars and dozens more introduced every year, how do you choose the right one? The American Hosta Growers Association (www.hostagrowers.org) has been trying to help by highlighting a Hosta of the Year, a program they started in 1996. Selected cultivars have a proven track record and should be available in most garden centres at a reasonable price. 

This year’s winner, ‘Rainbow’s End’ (natural sport of ‘Obsession’) was selected by Hans Hansen and introduced in 2005 by Shady Oaks Nursery in Minnesota. Like all hostas, ‘Rainbow’s End’ is a mound-forming herbaceous perennial, consisting mostly of leaves arising from very short, compressed stems. At maturity, the medium-sized mounds are about 11 inches (28 cm) tall (not including flowering stalks) with a 21-inch (53-cm) spread. 

When the leaves of ‘Rainbow’s End’ first emerge (5-7 leaves per shoot or ‘eye’), they are shiny and predominantly yellow with dark green margins and random light and dark green streaks shooting into the leaf’s centre. As the leaves age, they lose some of their shine and the yellow matures to creamy-white. Like snowflakes, the variegation is so irregular that no two leaves look alike. This is in contrast to its progenitor, ‘Obsession’, which has dark green margins and subtle light and dark green variegation. Leaf blades have a wide rounded base and come to slightly downward curled point, about 4 inches (10 cm) wide and 6 inches (15 cm) long. The petioles add an additional 6.5 inches (17 cm) to the overall leaf length. 

In Minnesota, flowering begins in early August and continues for about three weeks. About 15-20 pale violet, unscented, tubular flowers are produced on attractive, showy red flowering stems that add an additional 5-8 inches (13-20 cm) in height to the mound. After flowering, remove the flowering stalks close to their base (use scissors or secateurs) to keep the mounds looking tidy.

For best results, plant in light to dark shade, in the front to middle of your border. ‘Rainbow’s End’ can be planted as a single specimen, used as a border or groundcover, or planted as a bright ribbon running through your perennial border to draw your eye to other interesting features in your garden. Your soil should be well-amended with compost or other organic matter.  Add a 3-4 inch (7-10 cm) layer of mulch to retain soil moisture and to protect the crowns from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Hostas like to be kept evenly moist but not wet. 

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and tweets about on occasion @ErlSv.

Underutilized Perennials: Part 3

by Sara Williams and Jackie Bantle

In the final part of our series on underutilized perennials, we focus on four uncommon perennials that should be more readily available to Prairie gardeners. 

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis)

Native from Manitoba to Nova Scotia, both the common and the botanical names refer to the red root sap that was once used as a dye by Indigenous Peoples. If ever a flower deserved the term “ephemeral,” it is bloodroot. Once in bud, grab a cup of tea, a comfortable garden chair and a book of poetry. You have about 48 hours in which to sit and enjoy it. The flowers close at night and the petals soon fall. Nevertheless, it is breath-takingly gorgeous, especially the double form ‘Multiplex.’

The cup-shaped white flowers with orange-yellow stamens are 7 cm in diameter and held on stalks of about 10 cm. The double-flowered form lacks stamens and is longer lasting.

The basal leaves are as lovely as the flowers. Heart to kidney-shaped, lobed, and 15 to 30 cm across, they appear vertical before they unfold. By mid-summer, bloodroot has entered dormancy and disappeared.

This is a wonderful plant for a shaded border or woodland garden located in a protected location. They do best in evenly moist but well drained soil to which generous amounts of organic matter have been added.

Propagation

Bloodroot spreads slowly by rhizomes and can be propagated by careful division or by seed sown outdoors in the fall. The seed requires a cold period to ensure germination.  Plants are available from NVK Connon Nurseries and Canning Perennials; both located in Ontario.

‘Goldsmith’ dwarf variegated comfrey (Symphtum hybrid of unknown origin often sold as Symphytum grandiflorum ‘Variegatum’or S. ibericum ‘Jubilee’)

Here is a beautiful and well-behaved selection of comfrey that belies the reputation of the better known but wildly aggressive, rampant and invasive species. Once reputed to heal wounds, the common name, comfrey, is from the Middle English word cumfrie and the Old French fegier, meaning to cause coagulation of wounds. ‘Goldsmith’ is a variegated hybrid of unknown parentage. 

It forms a low clump of light green variegated leaves about 30 cm in height. Red buds mature to soft blue, bell-like flowers in drooping clusters from late spring to early summer. It has a rhizomatous rootstock.

‘Goldsmith’ is ideal for a shaded border or woodland garden. Remove any portions that revert to green.

Propagation

It is propagated by division or root or stem cuttings.  Plants are available from NVK nursery. 

‘The Beatles’ (Carex caryphyllea) is an ornamental grass. Its appearance is reminiscent of the haircuts sported by the famous British band; cute, slightly curly mop-head.  The short runners gradually form a colony of narrow green foliage about 20 cm in height. This is a well-behaved, hardy and very adaptable grass that will do well in sun or shade on a variety of soils. It is very drought-tolerant once established. It should be much more readily available.

Propagation:

‘The Beatles’ spreads by division.  Unfortunately, we were unable to find any nursery carrying this plant.  If you have more luck than we do, please let us know.

Giant white fleece flower (Persicaria polymorpha)

The giant white fleece flower was introduced to North American horticulture by Wolfgang Oehme, a German landscape architect who gained fame for his promotion of ornamental grasses.  This is indeed a giant of a perennial, but it is exceedingly well behaved and non-spreading. Native to the high elevation, gravelly slopes of China and Japan, it is the one that visitors always ask about.

Forming large, vase-shaped clumps, the giant white fleece flower produces enormous, fluffy spikes of creamy white flowers in July on stems 200 cm and higher! By September the flowers have muted to a soft tan. The large, pointed, green leaves compliment the flowers.

It will thrive in sun or shade in a variety of soils from dry to moist. It is extremely drought-tolerant once established. Use this as a specimen plant or at the back of a border.

Propagation:

Plants are available from Vesey’s Seeds in PEI and Paramount Nursery in Ottawa, Ontario.

Good luck with your perennial shopping.  Happy Gardening!

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Under Utilized Perennials: Part 2

by Sara Williams and Jackie Bantle

Last week we discussed several early blooming spring perennials that are completely hardy but under-utilized in the Prairie garden.  This week we continue with three more later spring blooming perennials that are dependable and noteworthy. 

Spring adonis (Adonis vernalis)

One of the hardiest and most lovely and dependable perennials, spring Adonis is also one of the least seen. According to Greek mythology, it was named after Adonis the Greek god of plants. The word vernalis means spring, the time when it blooms.

It forms a mound about 50 cm high of light green, finely dissected, almost ferny foliage. The single flowers, on 30 cm stems, are waxy yellow and buttercup-like. They are about 6 cm in diameter with 10 to 20 petals that open flat in early spring.

Spring adonis does best in evenly moist, well-drained soil well amended with organic matter. Plant spring adonis in the front of a border, a shade garden or a rock garden as it flourishes in both full sun and full shade.

Propagation

Spring adonis seeds need at least six weeks of temperatures below 5°C to initiate germination:  it is best to sow seed directly outdoors in fall or very early spring.   Seeds are available from Plant World Seeds (www.plant-world-seeds.com).  Wrightman Alpine Nursery in New Brunswick sells plants.  (www.wrightmanalpines.com

Fernleaf clematis (Clematis hirsutissima)

Most prairie gardeners are familiar with clematis as a vine, but the herbaceous, non-climbing clematis are less well known. Hairy or fern-leafed clematis (C. hirsutissima) is native to the Great Plains states and was first collected by John Scott in 1872 in Colorado. The species name means hairy and describes the long silky hairs on its foliage which is much divided and almost fern-like. The blue flowers appear in spring on 60 cm (2 ft) stems and are followed by feathery seed heads. It’s a truly hardy, lovely and rare plant.

Grow plants in full sun or light shade in soil with average moisture that has been well amended with organic matter. Plants are well suited to the front or mid-range of a perennial border.  Fernleaf clematis tolerates rabbits, deer and drought.

Propagation

They may be increased from seed or early spring division or propagated by cuttings in late spring before flowering. Plants are difficult to source but check with Honeywood Nursery in Parkside, Saskatchewan or Skinner’s Nursery in Roblin, Manitoba as possible suppliers.

Shield-leaf, astilboides (Astilboides tabularis)

If you have visited English gardens and marveled at (and had your photo taken with) Gunnera, here is a slightly smaller but much hardier version. Although unrelated, astilboides is the perfect antidote for “Gunnera withdrawal” when prairie garden travelers return home. The species name tabularis means table, a reference to the leaves. One of the common names, shield-leaf, describes the shield-like appearance of the foliage. Native to northern China, Manchuria and North Korea, where it grows in moist woodlands and near lakes and streams, Astilboides tabularis it is much hardier than its classification in many publications suggests. It has been grown for over a decade in a rural Saskatchewan garden (formerly zone 2, now designated as zone 3).

A bold plant of great architectural value, it is nevertheless well behaved, forming a slowly enlarging clump. Its large circular leaves are 30 to 45 cm (12-18 in.) in diameter and about 1 m (3 ft) in height. The leaf stalks are in the center of the leaf blade, giving them an umbrella-like appearance. As the genus name, astilboides, suggests, the creamy white flowers, formed on 120 cm (4 ft) stalks in early summer, resemble those of astilbe.

Plant astilboides in full or partial shade in humus rich but well drained soil. It demands even moisture but should not be water-logged. Mulching is beneficial. This is an excellent perennial for a shaded border or a woodland garden alongside ferns and hostas. 

Propagation

If you have a friend with this remarkable plant, it is easily propagated by divisions in early spring.  Seeds, available from Plant World Seeds, germinate easily under moist, room temperature conditions.  Plants are available from Gardenworks in Burnaby, BC and Fraser Thimble Farms located on Salt Spring Island.

Tune in next week for our final part 3 in this series studying Underutilized Perennials.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Under Utilized Perennials: Part One

by Jackie Bantle and Sara Williams

For the next few weeks, we will be presenting a selection of some lovely perennials, hardy and dependable, which should have a place in every northern garden.

Obtaining them can be a real challenge but well worth the effort. Sadly, they are seldom seen in our nurseries and garden centres. They’re in need of both a marketing agent and a propagation push on the part of the wholesale growers who supply our local nurseries. We have grown some of these species for more than 30 years and recommend them very highly.

Noble fumitory, corydalis (Corydalis nobilis)

Corydalis is one of our earliest perennials, forming leafy mounds of attractive, ferny, pinnately-compound foliage with a blue-green cast. The flowers, in large dense racemes, are bright yellow with a brown tip, each with four petals, one of which is spurred. They appear in early spring on 45 to 60 cm (18-24 in.) stems. By early summer they have entered dormancy, leaving not a trace until the next spring.

They do well in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil with even moisture. Mark their position and take care not to place another plant over them once they become dormant. Place them adjacent to a perennial that will modestly spread into the space vacated by the corydalis by mid-summer. They are a well suited to the edge of a woodland or shade garden.

Note: Although the blue-flowered types are more readily available, they are not reliably hardy in most northern regions.
Corydalis nobilis will self-seed in a very gentle and limited way. Seeds are available from Plant World Seeds (www.plant-world-seeds.com), located in the UK and ships seeds globally. Seeds require a cold period and may take a few weeks or several months to germinate. Plants are available from Lost Horizons Nursery in southern Ontario (www.losthorizons.ca).

‘Rubie’s Choice’ creeping phlox (Phlox borealis)

The genus name is from a Greek word meaning “flame”, referring to the bright pink to red flowers of several species. From 8 to 20 cm (3-8 in.) in height, most have awl shaped, bright green leaves on creeping stems.

Spring blooming, they do best in full sun. Plants can be kept neat by shearing them after bloom.

They are stunning in a rock garden or as edging for a perennial border where the evergreen foliage remains attractive after bloom is finished.

‘Rubies Choice’ is a hybrid of Phlox borealis and P. subulata that originated in Hugh Skinner’s garden in the 1980s. It has bright pink flowers and is more resistant to browning out in winter than any other variety.

Seeds need light to germinate. At 20˚C, seeds should germinate in 7-10 days. Eden Brothers (www.edenbrothers.com) sells seed. Cuttings and plants are available from Wrightman Alpine Nursery in New Brunswick (www.wrightmanalpines.com). Bylands Nursery in BC sells plants. You may want to go directly to the source and contact Skinner’s Nursery and Garden Center in Roblin, Manitoba for plants.

Iris (Iris spp.)

Arctic Iris (Iris setosa var. arctica), native to Siberia and Alaska, thrives under normal garden conditions. Low and grassy, it is 15 to 30 cm (6-12 in.) tall and can be used as a ground cover, at the front of the border or in a sunny rock garden. It has light blue flowers. I. setosa var. indigo has dark violet blue flowers and is a little taller at 30 to 45 cm (12-18 in.).

Spurious iris, bastard iris (Iris spuria), introduced to English gardens as early as 1573, is native from northern Europe to western Asia. The name spuria means false and was given to this species because Linnaeus believed it wasn’t a true species but a group of hybrids.

They are about 90 cm (3 ft) in height with lilac to lavender flowers and erect, glaucous, blue-green foliage.

Hybrids of Iris spuria, available from specialty iris growers, are tall plants to 120 cm (4 ft) with spectacular flowers in an array of colours from yellow to blue, burgundy and brown. They bloom after the tall bearded iris and make excellent cut flowers.

Plant World Seeds sells both of these iris species. Seeds may require a dormant period and can be seeded outdoors in fall for spring germination. Arctic Iris plants are available through Valleybrook Gardens in Abbotsford, BC (www.valleybrook.com). Chapman Iris Farm in Guelph, Ontario (chapmaniris.com) sells Spurious iris plants.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Winning flower and vegetable choices for 2021

by Erl Svendsen

Since 1933, you can trust recommendations from All-America Selections (www.all-americaselections.org) to have ‘superior garden performance,’ whether they are vegetables, annuals or perennials. You may be familiar with some of their past winners as they have truly stood the test of time: ‘Detroit’ beet (1934), ‘Straight-8’ cucumber (1935) and, more recently, ‘Purple Wave’ petunia (1995). While the 2021 winning crop is smaller than in past years, they are still champions.

‘Creme Brulee’ echalion (shallot): ‘Creme Brulee’ is a large (4-5 inches / 10-13 cm), easy-to-peel, single centred bulb with the typical coppery-pink outer skin and purple interior. Like onions, echalions are easy to grow in the home garden in full sun. Best started indoors, they can be harvested 98 days from transplant. Eaten raw in salads, they have a mild onion flavour with a hint of citrus; when sautéed, the sugars caramelize and add a depth of flavour that doesn’t overpower in a variety of home-cooked dishes.

‘Goldilocks’ acorn squash: One of the issues I have with some squash is that their vines can take over the world. Not this one! It is a compact bush type, taking up only a 4-5-foot (1.2-1.5-m) circle. The other issue I have with squash is their sometimes late harvest. But with ‘Goldilocks’, harvest can start very early, at 70 days after transplant. Each bush produces up to ten 1-pound (500 g), rounded, bright orange squash. When cooked, they have a sweet, rich nutty flavour with a great texture.

Kelos ‘Candela Pink’ celosia: This tall, stunning pink annual is versatile and can be grown equally well in containers and garden beds. The hot pink, poker-like flowers are 10-15 inches (25-40 cm) long, making the total plant height 25-30 inches (65-75 cm). With no deadheading needed, it earned the nickname ‘Energizer Bunny’ for its long bloom time, from late spring to fall. In addition to adding a bright splash of colour to your garden, it makes an excellent cut or dried flower. Planted in full to part sun, it tolerates heat and, for those on an acreage, it is deer resistant. It is propagated from cuttings only and not available from seed.

‘Pot-a-peno’ F1 jalapeno pepper: A very compact jalapeno pepper, and as its name suggests, it does well in containers including hanging baskets, making it perfect for patio and balcony gardens. Despite its small size, it produces masses of 3-4-inch (7.5-10-cm) long, moderately hot green peppers. Leave the peppers a few extra weeks to mature to red, and you’ll be rewarded with some spicy sweetness. Harvest can start as early as 45-50 days after transplanting, earlier than most other varieties, to give you a head start on salsa season. Plant in full sun.

‘Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor’ zinnia, an AAS Gold Medal winner (also Fleuroselect Gold Medal winner). In the past 25 years, only five other winners have been distinguished with a Gold Medal, and three of them belong to the Profusion zinnia series: Profusion Cherry (1999), Orange (1999) and White (2001). Like its forebears, this one flowers profusely from late spring to fall, on medium green, mounded, compact plants (8-14 inches / 20-35 cm). The bold and vibrant bicoloured blooms are 2.5 inches (6 cm) across. Starting out as yellow with red centres, the flowers mature to salmon, apricot and dusty rose shades, harmonizing beautifully with the newer blooms. Performing equally well in containers and the garden, they tolerate heat, rain and wind.

‘Sweet Daisy Birdy’ Leucanthemum (Shasta daisy): Unlike the tall, lanky Shasta daisies in your grandmother’s garden, this one is compact and free flowering. Bright white, 5-inch (7.5-cm) blooms with yellow centres top 18-24-inch (45-60-cm) dark green plants. It can be grown in containers as well as in the ground, towards the mid- and back border in full sun. Indoors, it adds height and brightness to informal bouquets. As a bonus, it attracts pollinators. Heat tolerant and hardy (to zone 3), it should thrive in our prairie gardens. Deadheading will help keep the plants looking their best.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and occasionally tweets about it @ErlSv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

A few good gardening ideas to start off the New Year

by Erl Svendsen

The term ‘New Year resolution’ comes with a lot of baggage. Mostly, it’s because the typical resolution is too big and may require a change in behaviour (e.g. diet and exercise, write a novel). So, let’s just call them good ideas to aspire to so they seem less daunting and more achievable. Along that vein, my first ‘good idea’ for 2021 is to get my articles in on time.

Last year flew by but I managed to take the time to smell (and deadhead) the flowers and harvest my ridiculously large, many-coloured carrot patch – I still have many pounds to go, even after sharing about a third with friends, family and neighbours. I’ve never had such a crop of carrots, but that’s probably thanks to sticking to one of my good ideas from last year: spend more time taking care of my veggie garden, especially with regards to watering.

Another good idea I had last year was to plant something new. Last February, I fell in love with a picture of ‘Amazing Grey’ Shirley poppies with their delicate, single and semi-double ruffled flowers in storm-cloud colours: slate-blue, purple, lavender, and light grey. I had to have them. I sprinkled the dust-like seed directly on the ground and covered with a very thin layer of soil in May. After a few weeks, lime green seedlings emerged (I almost weeded them out) that by July were in full flower. In addition to attracting pollinators, quite a number of my fellow community gardeners remarked on them and asked if they could take a few seed pods to grow in their own garden. My new plant for 2021 is going to be another poppy, this time ‘Giant Rattle’ breadseed poppy sporting large golf ball-sized pods.

Another common gardener’s good idea is to visit other people’s gardens for inspiration (and to maybe convince the owner to share a cutting or division of something that catches your eye). Last year that was a challenge to do in person, but there are other ways to visit a garden. For example, The Gardener for Canadian Climates (formerly The Saskatchewan Gardener) often features beautiful gardens and their caretakers. And virtual garden tours of backyards to Botanic Gardens abound on the interweb (just ask Mr. Google for suggestions).

Maybe this is the year you start a compost pile to take care of your yard and kitchen scraps. The Saskatchewan Waste Reduction Council (www.saskwastereduction.ca/recycle/resources/composting/) is an incredible resource with information and videos to help you get started, choosing the right style, and finding a ‘compost coach’ for a bit of one-on-one advice. If composting is not your thing but still want to divert your green waste from the landfill, consider dropping it off a municipal composting depot or signing up for the green bin program in your community.

As a final good idea for 2021, inspect your tools. Sharpen your spades, hoes and pruning equipment. Replace splintering handles and dull, impossible to sharpen blades. If a tool is completely useless, replace it with a ‘tool-for-life’ model. This is not a brand but rather a tool that is made from durable materials (e.g. one-piece cast metal trowel), is well designed (ergonomic) and comes highly recommended by your gardening friends. A lifetime guarantee is often a sign of quality. Even though a tool-for-life may seem expensive at first, you save money in the medium term as your not replacing it (unless your neighbour ‘borrows’ it).

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and tweets about on occasion @ErlSv

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Remembering Lawrence

by Bernadette Vangool

In 2010 an older gentleman joined the Saskatchewan Perennial Society. He seemed to have a keen interest in all things related to flowers and perennials. This gentleman, Lawrence Klutz was soon actively participating in all activities of the organization, starting in spring of 2011 as one of the volunteers manning the Saskatchewan Perennial Society’s booth at Gardenscape.

Lawrence was born into the farming community of Canora in 1937 and he and his wife Lorraine spent most of their lives there, only moving to Saskatoon in 2009 to be closer to their two children. Lawrence started out farming but eventually operated a flower shop in Canora. He was proud of the fact that when Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip visited Canora in 1987, he, Lorraine and Kevin Hryhoriw designed all the flower arrangements for the Royal Dinner tables as well as the bouquets presented to the queen when she embarked from the plane in Yorkton and again in Veregin, where she visited the National Doukhobor Heritage Village.

Lawrence was always community minded, and was recognized in 2009 for his 28 years as scout leader and was also a lifetime member of the Lyons club in Canora.

After his move to Saskatoon, he started work at Michaels as their designer in the flower section. He loved sharing his knowledge about flower arranging with customers and loved meeting people.

He completed the Master Gardener Program at the University in October 2011 and since then has volunteered each year at Gardenscape, helping with the set up of the University of Saskatchewan displays and gardens. He was instrumental in the development of the community garden at Varsity View. Helped dig the plots and plant a fruit row for the community, as well as helping out with pruning and clean up.

Lawrence became a Board member of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society in 2014 and took  an active part in the plant selection committee for our plant sale, which is part of our yearly Spring Plant Exchange event. In addition to contributing to the selection of plants ordered each spring, Lawrence also volunteered to have the plants delivered to his home, and to look after them till the actual plant exchange. He also over wintered and donated Canna lilies to the yearly plant sale, with all proceeds going to the Saskatchewan Perennial Society.

At the Plant Exchange, Lawrence soon joined, the select few among our members able to identify mystery plants brought to the exchange, and the conditions needed to keep these plants alive.

Besides his work at Michaels he also spent one day per week in the summer time maintaining the grounds of the Willowcrest condos and was a regular volunteer at the grounds of Ronald MacDonald House for the last five years.

Lawrence passed away on July 14, 2020 and will be remembered by his loving wife, Lorraine, his son and daughter and two grandchildren.

We last met with Lawrence at our board meeting in early March. We will miss his quiet manner and his input and participation in our yearly plant sale. We will miss especially our sharing sessions after the formal meetings, when Lawrence would invariably get out his cell phone and update us on the latest pictures and videos of his beloved grandchildren. We have also appreciated the goodies Lorraine sent along occasionally with Lawrence over the years that he was on the board.

Lawrence was a true gentleman, “a prince of a man” He will be missed by the members of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society, particularly by the members of the board with whom he worked. We all appreciated the way in which he shared his extensive knowledge of plants and gardening, in a positive and enlightening fashion.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website (www.saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/saskperennial).

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Ringing in the Bellflowers

by Sara Williams

Campanula is the Latin word for “little bell” and describes the flowers of this genus – formed from the 5 lobes that are fused at the base in a bell-like form. The flowers are most commonly blue but can be white or in some species, shades of pink.

Most bellflowers thrive in moist, well drained soils in sun or partial shade. Mulch is beneficial to keep the soil cool and moist and to control weed germination.

Medium-sized species such as C. persicifolia and C. glomerata are striking in drifts in the mid-border. Low growing species such as C. cochlearifolia and C. carpatica are excellent plants at the edge of the border or in rock gardens.

Carpathian bellflower (Campanula carpatica) forms a 15- to 20-cm (6-8-in.) tussock of leaves with relatively large blue or white upturned flowers on stems up to 30 cm (12 in.) high from spring to late summer. Divide it every two to three years to maintain vigor. The following varieties are less hardy but more available than the species.

‘Blue Clips’ is more compact with blue flowers.

‘Deep Blue Clips’ is a compact dark blue form.  

‘White Clips’ is a compact white flowered form.  

Dwarf bellflower (or fairy thimble bellflower) (C. cochlearifolia) is a very compact species, 10 to 15 cm (4-6 in.) in height with tiny, deep green leaves and nodding blue or white flowers. Native to the mountains of Europe, the species name is from the Latin word for “little spoon” and describes the shape of the leaves. The plants spread by rhizomes to fill available spaces in the rock garden, around paving stones or at the edge of a path or border. It does best in well-drained soil in full sun.

‘Alba’ is a white form that is less winter hardy than the species.

‘Bavaria Blue’ has light blue flowers.

‘Blue Baby’ is dark blue.

‘Elizabeth Oliver’ has tiny double blue flowers.

‘Miranda’ has icy pale blue flowers.

Clustered bellflower (C. glomerata) is native to Europe and northern Asia with flowers clustered at the top of the stem. Plants are 15 to 60 cm (6-24 in.) high with a spread of 30 to 100 cm (12-36 in.). Shear after bloom for a tidier appearance. Plant them in full sun in well drained soils.

‘Acaulis’ is a shorter form that is almost stemless.

var. alba has white flowers and is 45 to 60 cm (18-24 in.) in height.

‘Superba’ is a vigorous, slightly taller variety with deep violet blue flowers.

Peach-leaved bellflower (C. persicifolia), native to the Balkan peninsula from Turkey into Russia, has foliage similar to a peach as suggested by both the common and Latin names. It is adapted to sun or partial shade in average well-drained soil. The plants spread by rhizomes, forming rosettes of deep green leaves with flower stems to 80 to 100 cm (30-40 in.) with blue or white flowers. It is easy to grow from seed.

‘Alba’ is a white flowered form, up to 80 cm (30 in.) tall.

‘Chettle Charm’ has elegant white flowers edged with blue. It is 75 to 90 cm (30-35 in.) high.

‘Takion Blue’ is a compact form, 40 to 50 cm (15-20 in.) high with pale blue flowers.

‘Takion White’ is a compact white flowered selection of 40 to 50 cm (15-20 in.) in height.

BEWARE the creeping bellflower (C. rapunculoides). This one is considered a serious weed of gardens, back alleys and even lawns. Several blooming, slender stems (in clumps or spread out) may reach 1 metre (3 feet) high or more. Nodding, deep blue to lavender bells develop singly from leaf axils on one side of the upper stem. They may seem harmless and even make a nice cut flower. But once in your yard or neighbourhood, they are poorly behaved, spreading rampantly, and take a great deal of effort to eradicate.

Sara Williams is the author of  Gardening Naturally with Hugh Skinner,  Creating the Prairie Xeriscape, and with Bob Bors, Growing Fruit in Northern Gardens. She gives workshops on a wide range of gardening topics throughout the prairies.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com). Check our website saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (facebook.com/saskperennial). All Saskatchewan Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

Book review: The Prairie Garden

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Erl Svendsen, Saskatchewan Perennial Society

When I moved to the Prairies, it was to be for a short time – get a degree in horticulture science and escape back to Victoria, BC where you can garden 11 and half months a year (I’m making allowances for the occasional snowfalls).

This, because my mother, originally a prairie girl, regaled us with cautionary tales of minus 40 winters, blistering summers and walking to school, uphill both ways (but also of the dreary, desolate flat land). However, when I landed here, I was captivated by the vast expanses of blazing yellow, blue and gold in the summer and the subtle beauty, quiet and strength of the natural areas.

During my studies, I learned how some prairie native plants like wild roses had been used in breeding programs to increase the hardiness and disease resistance of their more tender cousins. And I learned about many other native plants that were ‘improved’ and are now grown in gardens around the world because of their colour, beauty and fortitude – like blazing star, yarrow, columbine, purple coneflower, beebalm, potentilla and goldenrod, just to name a few.

This is why I’m exited that the theme of this year’s The Prairie Garden is ‘Inspired by Nature’ (81st edition of Western Canada’s only gardening annual). With over 30 articles on gardening with native plants and an additional dozen on general gardening topics, this edition is an excellent primer on how to invite the Prairies into your garden.

And why should you grow native perennials. Because, they are survivors, adapted to our climate (unlike most of us), and are important pollen and nectar sources for bees, butterflies and other insects. Not only that, they are equal in beauty and diversity to the exotics from Europe and Asia.

The new edition starts off with an article by Janet Davis (a garden writer in Toronto whose Saskatoon and Prairie roots are deep), describing several of her favourite Prairie natives along with brief care and keeping instructions. Additional ‘plant’ articles are peppered throughout the publication – hardy cacti, native grasses, lady-slipper orchid, prairie crocus, milkweed (critical for monarch butterfly survival) and medicinal plants. If you live on an acreage, Sheryl Normandeau from Calgary offers advice on what to grow in your shelterbelt to attract wildlife.

 For more intimate spaces, June Flanagan (botanist, environmental horticulturist from southern Alberta) shares her thoughts and experiences creating a nurturing environment for pollinators from early spring (when there are few options for early foragers) through to first frosts.

But Prairie gardening can be more than just introducing a few native plants into your yard. Indeed, your entire landscape can be inspired by the Prairies. This takes a lot more experience and knowledge to pull off – Prairie plants might be tough, but they developed in communities and specific environments that likely do not resemble your yard. Done right, a Prairie landscape requires fewer inputs and much less coddling. Done poorly, it can be a weed-filled hodgepodge of seemingly randomly placed plants. Luckily, several experts weigh in on how to transform spaces large and small into a Prairie-esque patches.

To start you along this path, Marika Olynyk (a Manitoba environmental educator with Nature Conservancy of Canada) describes what was here before colonialization. She dispels the myth that the Prairie region (which extends deep into the USA) was just a barren, unproductive and uniform grassland – Instead there was great diversity in plant communities consisting of grasses, perennials (forbs), shrubs and trees.

 And while climate, soils and topography dictated what could grow on a site, Indigenous peoples managed these landscapes on the large scale for their own purposes. John Morgan (founder of Canada’s first Prairie restoration company) and several other native plant experts and enthusiasts provide a few guidelines, design tips and plant suggestions.

In addition, the publication includes a list of great references for further reading as well as direction to landscapes that can inspire.

There are so many gems in this edition of the Prairie Garden. I recommend picking up a copy for yourself or several as gifts for your gardening friends.

The Prairie Garden is a ‘non-profit publication dedicated to the advancement of horticulture on the Prairies.’ Available at most garden centres, book stores or online (www.theprairiegarden.com).

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and occasionally blogs about it (@ErlSv)

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website (www.saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/saskperennial) for a list of upcoming gardening events.

Four winning flowers from All-America Selections

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Erl Svendsen, Saskatchewan Perennial Society

Another year, another crop of winners. All-American Selections (AAS, www.all-americaselections.org), an independent non-profit organization, has been evaluating new introduction in test sites across North America since 1932. And many of winning selections have stood the test of time. My mother-in-law grew ‘Straight-8’ cucumbers, a winner from 1935 and always shared her delicious and bountiful yield from her backyard.

In my garden, two past winners have been outstanding: ‘Foxy’ foxglove (1967 winner, dwarf annual, a mixture of creamy white, mauve and pink flowers) and ‘Tropical Rose’ canna (1992 winner, dwarf tender perennial, flowers from seed in the first year).

This year’s floral AAS winners are:

• Coleus ‘Main Street Beale Street’

• Coneflower (Echinacea) Sombrero® Baja Burgundy

• Nasturtium ‘Tip Top Rose’

• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) ‘American Gold Rush’

There are 100s if not 1000s of coleus varieties, but ‘Main Street Beale Street’ is AAS’ first winning coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides). Upright and bushy (24-36 inches), this coleus has stunning deep red leaves that retain their colour even in full sun. It flowers late in the season with short spikes of small purple flowers – but since the leaves are the main attraction, simple pinch them out as they appear. It grows well in both sun and shade, sturdy enough to withstand rain and wind and tolerates heat. Ideal as a container plant, cuttings also make an excellent addition to fresh floral bouquets from your garden.

Sombrero® Baja Burgundy coneflower (Echinacea hybrida) sports long-lasting 3-inch burgundy-red flowers atop medium height, sturdy stems (18-20 inches). It is rated as hardy to zone 4 which in Saskatchewan means, plant it in a sheltered location and cover the soil with mulch. Plant it in full sun in well-drained soil; otherwise it tolerates a wide range of growing conditions: wind, heat, rain and frost.

A few additional features worth mentioning: drought tolerant once established, attracts pollinators like butterflies, and is great as a fresh or dried cut flower.

‘Tip Top Rose’ nasturtium (Tropaeolum minus), unlike it’s usually sprawling, gangly sisters, forms a relatively compact mound (14 x 18 inches) covered season-long in showy, warm bright-rose flowers that are held above the leaves. The flowers resist fading as they age but you will need to deadhead them to promote continuous flowering. Place it in full to part-sun in the garden, as low edging or as a trailer in containers. This variety tolerates a wide range of environmental conditions: drought, heat, cold, rain and wind.

Not only is this another pollinator-friendly plant, all parts are edible: the leaves and flowers are peppery and make a nice addition to salads; pickled seed pods (~3/8 inch diameter) can be substituted for capers.

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia x) can’t help but draw your eye with its profusion of bright golden-yellow, two-inch blooms with their name-sake black centres.

A compact selection (up to 24 inches tall), it flowers from mid-summer to frost. A perennial rated to USDA zone 4 (protected location, mulch), it tolerates both heat and drought. Choose a location in full sun with well-drained soil. Or grow it in a container to add height and drama to your deck or patio. In addition to being yet another pollinator-friendly plant, it can be used as a fresh or dried cut flower.

One of the judges declared this selection as, ‘one of the very best rudbeckias I’ve trialed and one of the very best perennials, too.’ High praise indeed.

Like all newly introduced plants, these four may be in short supply in 2020 but look for them in seed catalogues and at garden centres this spring anyway. In addition, take time this summer to visit the AAS demonstration garden on the North side of the Agriculture Building on the University of Saskatchewan’s campus in Saskatoon.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and tweets about on occasion @ErlSv

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website (www.saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/saskperennial) for a list of upcoming gardening events. Boffins Garden by Rob Crosby – January 29th, 7:30PM, Emmanuel Anglican Church, 607 Dufferin @ 12th Street. Free and open to the public.

Choosing your Christmas tree

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Jackie Bantle, Saskatchewan Perennial Society

Using greenery to decorate inside homes around the winter solstice (December 21st) goes back to ancient Greek and Egyptian times.  In many countries throughout time, evergreen plant decorations were used to ward off witches, evil spirits and even illness during winter solstice.  Germany is credited with originating the Christmas Tree as we know it today when 16th century Christians brought trees into their homes at Christmas time to decorate.  Martin Luther, the 16th century Protestant reformer, is the first recorded person to place lighted candles on a Christmas Tree:  he said that it reminded him of the twinkling stars above a forest of evergreen trees. 

When I was young, most Christmas trees were cut from wild forests in northern Saskatchewan or British Columbia.

 Nowadays, retail fresh Christmas trees are grown on Christmas tree farms.  These trees may be grown locally or shipped from as far away as Quebec or the northern States.  Locally grown trees include:  White (Black Hills) Spruce, Blue Spruce, Balsam Fir and Scots Pine. 

White spruce trees have short (2cm), stiff needles that are dark green in color and easily roll between your fingers.  Blue spruce needles have a bluish-green color.  Spruce tree branches are straight and stiff and their fragrance can be intense when they are first set up. 

Balsam fir trees have flat, short, soft needles that are glossy green in color.  The soft needles and branches as well as the pleasant, long-lasting fragrance make the Balsam fir one of the most favorite trees at Christmas. 

Scots pine tree needles are long (6cm), sharp and slightly twisted.  Scots pine are the least fragrant of the four trees mentioned so far.  The long needles of the Scots pine tree make the tree look lush and green.  Scots pine trees grown in Saskatchewan tend to have a yellowish-green hue in fall and are sometimes spray painted to hide the yellowish needles.  

Fraser firs are imported from eastern Canada and available at most tree lots on the Prairies.  Fraser firs are known for their ability to hold their needles longer than other tree types.  Fraser firs have soft needles with silvery-grey underside, strong but limber branches and mild fragrance.  Douglas fir trees are shipped from BC.  The needles are soft and have a lemony scent.  The Douglas fir is usually narrower and less dense than the Fraser fir.  

When choosing your Christmas tree, look for a tree that has healthy, green needles that are well attached to the tree.  The more branches that are emerging from the stem, the denser the tree will be.    

If you are not putting up your tree immediately, store your tree in a cool/cold shady location; do not let the tree thaw. 

Just prior to putting your tree in the stand, saw 2.5cm off the base of the tree trunk, cutting the trunk at a slight angle.  After putting the tree in its stand, fill the stand with boiling hot water.  The boiling hot water will help the sap to start moving through the tree as it thaws.  Do NOT put any sugar or other additives in the water.  Never allow your Christmas tree to dry out.  In the first few days, the tree will ‘drink’ a lot of water.  Depending on how big your water reservoir is, you may have to fill the reservoir several times each day.  As the tree gets older, it will use less water. 

Avoid setting your tree near a heat register.  Never leave your tree unattended with the lights on.   

If you are planning to cut your own Christmas tree from the forest, remember that only one tree can be cut per family. 

Saskatchewan residents are permitted to cut trees growing ONLY on Crown land or provincial forests, NOT on private land.  The tree can be no larger than 12’ high and must not be cut from an area of renewal (i.e. a newly planted forest). 

Minimize the damage to the surrounding plant and wildlife in the area.  Perhaps a better idea is to support your local tree grower and visit one of the local farms that allow people to come out and cut their own Christmas tree.  Check out the Prairie Christmas Tree Growers Association website for information on local Prairie Christmas tree growers.  (www.prairiechristmastrees.org)  

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website (www.saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/saskperennial) for a list of upcoming gardening events.

More Perennials: Ligularia, elephant ears, golden ray (Ligularia spp.)

Sara Williams, Saskatchewan Perennial Society

Few perennials can compete with ligularia for its presence, size and sheer visual impact. They’re large without being invasive or unruly. They are also very hardy and long-lived. Native to China and Japan where they are found in tall grass meadows, often by mountain streams, their major requirement is even moisture. They were introduced to British gardens by the turn of the last century. The common name, elephant ears, is a reference to the size and shape of the leaves. The genus name is derived from the Latin word ligula, a strap, and describes the strap-like ray florets of the flower, while dentata means toothed and refers to the leaf margins.

Varying in height from 1-2 m (3-6 ft), ligularia form neat clumps of foliage overtopped by the flower spikes. The large, attractive leaves are round, heart or kidney shaped and appear alternately on the erect, stout stems. The foliage and stems vary from green to darkest purple. The yellow to orange, daisy-like flowers are formed in spikes well above the foliage and appear in July and August.

As Allan Armitage, renowned author and horticulturist, so aptly wrote, “Grow [them] in cool, moist conditions or not at all. I wouldn’t plant any ligularia if I didn’t have a wet space for it.” They demand a deep soil in partial shade that is well amended with organic matter and is kept evenly moist. They are happiest in boggy conditions and even then the leaves may appear wilted by mid-afternoon (but will have recovered by the following morning). Slugs may be a problem. Ligularia is at home in a shaded border, a bog garden, massed or as specimen plants, or by a streamside. The unimproved species may be increased by seed; the varieties by cuttings or spring division.

Species and varieties:

Ligularia dentata, native to China and Japan and introduced to England in the 1940s, is probably the most common species and its cultivars are what are generally seen in our gardens.

‘Desdemona’ is more compact, branched and heat-tolerant than the species. It has large 9 cm (3.5 in.), golden yellow to orange, daisy-like flowers in July and August on 100 cm (40 in.) mauve-purple stems. Its kidney to heart-shaped green foliage has gorgeous, almost sensuous, purple undersides.

‘Othello’ also has daisy-like, orange flowers with kidney-shaped to round leaves with purple undersides. It is in all ways similar to ‘Desdemona’ but slightly smaller and not as compact. It is 90-120 cm (36-48 in.) high.

‘Midnight Lady’, a recent seed introduction from Germany, is 90-100 cm (36-40 in.) high with large, rounded, purple-black leaves and golden-orange, daisy-like flowers.

Ligularia stenocephala, the narrow headed ligularia, is also native to Japan and China. As the common and species names imply, the flower spikes are narrower. The plant is somewhat taller at 150 cm (5 ft) in height.

‘The Rocket’ was introduced by Alan Bloom of Bressingham Nursery in England. It does indeed resemble a rocket when in bloom with small, light lemon-yellow flowers in wand-like, tapered racemes. The leaves are round to triangular, toothed, mainly basal and alternate on the stem. It is possibly a hybrid of L. stenocephala and L. przewalskii.

‘Little Rocket’ is compact and only 60-90 cm (24-36 in.) in height with orange-yellow flower spikes. It has not been widely tested in northern gardens and should be placed in a protected location.

‘Osiris Cafe Noir’, only 45 cm (18 in.) tall, has foliage that emerges deep purple and matures to olive green. It has not been widely tested in more northern gardens and should be placed in a protected location.

‘Britt Marie Crawford’ is 30-60 cm(1-2 ft), clump forming, with glossy-purple-black foliage. Again, it has not been widely tested in northern gardens and should be placed in a protected location.

Ligularia przewalskii, from northern China, produces 1.2-1.8 m (4-6 ft) spikes of small, clear yellow flowers on nearly black stems. The triangular, dark green leaves are deeply cut.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; saskperennial@hotmail.com ). Check our website (www.saskperennial.ca) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/saskperennial) for a list of upcoming gardening events.

Award-winning vegetables

by Erl Svedson

W. Ray Hastings, founder of All-America Selections (AAS; www.all-americaselections.org), had an idea in 1932. He proposed a system of trial gardens across North America where breeder would supply seeds of their latest flower and vegetable varieties. Skilled, impartial judges would assess the plants. The first winners were announced in 1933 and, for the first time, home gardeners, farm seed and florist magazine editors had a reliable source of information about the best new varieties. Today, the non-profit continues to test new varieties in about 80 trial gardens in the USA and Canada. This year, they picked six winning vegetables that performed well in all regions.

Sweet corn ‘American Dream’: Very tender and super sweet, this new, early (77 days from planting) bicolour variety ticks all the check boxes. Plant seeds 8 inches apart in early June. One 8-inch cob per plant. Can be eaten fresh, roasted, grilled, frozen or canned.

Pak choi ‘Asian Delight F1’: also known as bok choi, this new compact, small to midsize (5-7 inch head) cultivar is slow to bolt. Mild tasting, leaves are dark green with a tender white rib. Space 8-10 inches apart. From seed, plants are ready to harvest after 30-50 days; from transplants, 25-40 days. For an extended harvest, stagger two or three plantings a week or two apart. Can also be grown in containers.

Cayenne pepper ‘Red Ember F1’: Early to mature, compact (2 feet gall) and prolific (20-50 peppers) this is an ideal hot pepper for us northerners. Peppers are a warm season plants, so start seed indoors in early February and transplant in the garden in early June. Space plants 1-1.5 feet apart in full sun. From transplant, harvest ripe red, sweet and moderately spicy peppers after 75 days. Can also be container grown.

Habanero pepper ‘Roulette F1’: Habanero’s have a reputation for being too hot for mere mortals. But not this one – all the flavour, but no heat. Start seeds in early April (85°F) for transplanting in early June. Space at least about 2 feet apart in full sun. Ready to start harvesting 85 days after transplanting.

Cocktail tomato ‘Red Racer F1’: Small (1.5-inch globe) but with big flavour. Wioth clusters of uniform fruit that ripen together on a compact bush (3 feet tall), it’s ideal for containers and small spaces. Space transplants 2 feet apart in the garden in early June; ready to harvest after 2 months. Suitable for containers.

Grape tomato ‘Valentine F1’: Sweet, prolific and early – exactly what you’d like to have in a salad or snacking tomato. Set transplants 2 feet apart in the garden in early June. An indeterminate type reaching up to 6 feet tall, ‘Valentine’ will need staking. Harvest dark red fruit starting 55 days after transplant. Intermediate resistance to early blight.

In addition to the trial gardens, there are nearly 200 AAS display gardens showcasing some of the latest winners, including one next to the south entrance to the Agriculture Building on the University of Saskatchewan Campus. Put a note in your calendar to visit it this summer.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and recently started tweeting about it @ErlSv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com; www.facebook.com/saskperennial).

2018 floral showstoppers

by Erl Svedsen

Canna South Pacific Orange

The non-profit organization All-America Selections (AAS; www.all-americaselections.org) recently announced their winning flower and vegetable varieties for 2018. This year, six ornamental annuals made the cut.

Canna ‘South Pacific Orange F1’: This canna is compact, reaching 15-52 inches and sports long-lasting bright orange flowers. Compared to other cannas, it produces more basal branches (which equals more flower spikes). It needs neither staking nor deadheading. Start from seed in mid- to late February.

Transplant seedlings to individual pots when large enough to handle. Plant outdoors in full sun after last frost. In fall, you can dig up the fleshy rhizomes and store as you would begonias, dahlias and other tender bulbs, tubers, roots and corms. Great for containers or a compact border.

Cuphea FloriGlory® Diana: Very showy and floriferous, this Mexican heather forms a carpet of magenta flowers overtop dark glossy green leaves, reaching about 12 inches tall by 16 inches in diameter.

This is a great plant for the prairie garden being drought, heat, wind and rain tolerant as well as providing colour well into fall. A full sun plant, great for containers, hanging baskets, and edging in beds and borders.

Gypsophila ‘Gypsy White Improved’: Described as a ‘fluffy white mound of beauty,’ this annual baby’s-breath produces hundreds of large semi-double white flowers over a dense, 10-inch compact globe. Does best in bright and cool conditions; will tolerate warmer condition if given enough water (not drought tolerant). Grow in containers or in the garden as an edger or ground cover.

[Note: ‘Gypsy White Improved’ is a non-invasive baby’s-breath species, Gypsophila muralis].

Marigold Super Hero™ Spry: This compact, early blooming French marigold, 10-12 inches tall, produces large (2-inch) bicolour flowers: bright yellow-gold petals overtop maroon lower petals. Drought and heat tolerant once established, plant in full sun for best results. Deadhead to promote blooming.

Ornamental Pepper ‘Onyx Red’: A real stunner – dark purple-black leaves and stems contrast with bright red fruit on this compact bushy plant. Plant in full sun, this ornamental pepper, provides season-long interest even without fruit.

It has some drought tolerance once established and needs August heat to really perform. In containers, it will grow to about 6 inches; in the garden (beds, borders, mass plantings), it can reach up to 10 inches.

Zinnia ‘Queenie Lime Orange’: Zinnias are as popular today as they were in your grandmother’s garden. This new variety is sturdy (no staking required) and compact (1.5-2 feet) with fully double bicolour blooms that progress through shades of lime, yellow, peach, salmon and orange as they age. Drought and heat tolerant, plant in full sun.

Super for the cut flower garden, flowers can last up to 3 weeks in a vase. When mass planted, the striking large dahlia-like flowers are a real showstopper.

In addition to about 80 trial gardens across the USA and Canada, there are nearly 200 display gardens showcasing some of the latest AAS winners, including one next to the south entrance to the Agriculture Building on the University of Saskatchewan Campus.
Put a note in your calendar to visit it this summer.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and recently started tweeting about it @ErlSv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com; www.facebook.com/saskperennial).

Tough as nail houseplants

by Erl Svendsen

As I look out at leafless trees and snow, I am not the least surprised that houseplants have been popular for centuries. And it doesn’t take snow on the ground to want to bring a little natural colour into our homes. 

No plant ever developed naturally to survive in a home. Compared to much of the outside world, houses are dark, dry and occasionally drafty. And rarely does it rain in your house unless the upstairs bathtub overflows. Thus, potted plants rely on a human to supply all essential care and nutrients. Fortunately, many plants are easily grown indoors.

Water: Wait until the top inch of soil is dry to the touch; then water until it comes out at the bottom of the pot. Never allow the pot to sit in water.

Fertilizer: Fertilize once or twice a month at half-strength according to the label instructions. 20-20-20 is a good general houseplant fertilizer. If you’re like me, and put off fertilizing (meaning to do it tomorrow or on the weekend), use a slow-release type specifically made for houseplants and apply it according to label directions, usually every 4, 6, 9 or 12 months, depending on the formulation.

Temperature: Keep plants away from furnace vents. Not only is forced air too hot in winter (and too cold in summer if you have air-conditioning), it is also very drying. In winter, keep plants away from the cold drafts of open doors and windows.

Light: Keep your houseplants out of a direct south exposure (although a few feet away is okay). West and east exposures are fine year-round. Place plants within inches of the glass to ensure sufficient light in a north window. But take care not trap them between the window and the curtains in winter. Containers for plants that are to be in direct sun should never be made of a dark material; the roots may literally cook to death.

Truly tough plants

The appropriately named cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) was commonplace in Victorian parlours, able to survive low light and with little water. While the species has dark green leathery leaves, there are varieties with variegated and spotted foliage. Keep on the dry side and slightly pot-bound. Never use leaf-shine. 

The mother-in-law-tongue or snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) has thick, long, narrow, dark green, upright leaves that come to a sharp point and can grow up to four feet. Dwarf and variegated varieties exist. It can survive neglect but should be given adequate light (within 2-3 feet of an east or west window; within 4-6 feet of a south window). Keep out of cold drafts and do not over-water. Prefers to be pot-bound.

The Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema sp.) resembles the cast-iron plant in many ways and may even be as tough. The leaves are generally a pale green with a silvery splotched pattern, and are closely attached to one another on a short stem. Numerous varieties exist, differing mainly in leaf pattern including ones with dark pink/red leaf edge. They thrive at room temperature and indirect light. Do not over-water.

The amaryllis (Hippeastrum sp.) does not usually make the list of tough plants; however, if you have a south exposure and don’t care if it flowers exactly at Christmas, this is a very tolerant plant. Long, narrow, light green leaves arise from a bulb and usually last 6-8 months. Remove them with a gentle tug as they yellow. Triggered by daylength, they flower in the fall and again in the spring.  Repot your amaryllis when it breaks its pot. Keep it on the dry and warm side.

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and recently started tweeting about it @ErlSv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com; www.facebook.com/saskperennial). Check out our Bulletin Board or Calendar for upcoming garden information sessions, workshops, tours and other events.

Lilies for the prairies

by Margaret Driver

Most of the lilies grown in prairie gardens are hybrids of Asiatic species. Their ancestors originated in Asia in a climate very similar to ours. They can vary in height from 10 inches to 4 feet and come in a generous range of colours, blooming variously from June to late August.

The Longiflorum-Asiatic (LA) hybrids have similar characteristics to the Asiatics, but are sturdier, bloom more profusely, and are altogether showier. They can be more prone to colour-breaking virus especially the purple-red varieties. These have been are primarily hybridized in Holland where disease resistance is not high on the list of breeding goals. All are up-facing.

Martagon lilies have very good disease-resistance and tolerate a wide range of conditions. They should be well watered when planted and given another good watering each spring and occasionally in summer during prolonged dry conditions. Otherwise, they require very little additional water, actually preferring being kept on the dry side. Their down-facing blooms are dainty, recurved and often described as turkscaps. Blooming begins during the last week in June and some have as many as 50 flowers per stem. They are best placed in a semi-shady spot.

The best time to plant lilies is mid- to late-September. Choose a site that is well drained and where they will receive at least 6 hours sun per day. Heavy soils should be amended with fibrous materials such as coarse peat moss. Sharp sand, washed gravel or crushed gravel can be added to beds as well to improve drainage. Lighter soils can be amended with compost or other organic material to improve water holding capacity. However, do not plant bulbs in close contact with rotted manure. For xeriscape gardens, Asiatics and martagons are usually the best bet, but a number of LA hybrids will perform well too.

Plant in small groups of 3 or 5 bulbs, spaced 20 to 25 cm (8 to 10 in.) apart. In light soils, final planting depth should be 3 times as deep as the bulb’s diameter (= 5-6 inches deep); in heavier soils, twice the depth as its diameter (= 4-5 inches).

CTo start, dig the hole 2 inches deeper than required, sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of general lawn fertilizer (e.g. 16-20-0 or 11-52-0) in the bottom, add back 2 inches of soil, then set the bulb in the bottom and cover with soil. Water well.

During the first winter, cover with mulch to add an extra layer of protection.

The lilies listed below are tried and true and highly recommended by experienced prairie lily gardeners. They are available from both garden centres and local lily societies as well as through mailorder.

Asiatic Lilies
Orange: ‘Amarylis’, ‘Buff Pixie’, ‘Enchantment’, ‘Katinka’, ‘Parkland Orange’, ‘Port Alberni Tiger’, ‘Reta’s Comet’, ‘Super Nova’

Yellow: ‘Butter Pixie’, ‘Canola Queen’, ‘Connecticut King’, ‘Edith’ (‘Aleida’), ‘Golden Age’, ‘Golden Princess’, ‘Gran Cru’, ‘Helios’, Haydee’ (‘Hilde’), ‘Ivory Pixie’, ‘Lemon Queen’, ‘Moon Pixie’, ‘Northern Lights’, ‘Petit Brigette’, ‘Yellow Pixie’, ‘Skydancer’

Pink: ‘Barber #17’, ‘Carol Jean’, ‘Chianti’, ‘Crete’, ‘Denia’, ‘Dusky Belles’, ‘Embarrassment’, ‘Honey Pink’, ‘Honeywind’, ‘Ikaria’ (‘Malta), ‘Melissa Jaime’, ‘Minuette’, ‘Monte Rosa’, ‘Pink Pixie’, ‘Prairie Pink’, ‘Robinson’s Comet’, ‘Sassy’, ‘Sonata’, ‘Toscana’, ‘Tropic Delight’, ‘Tropical Dream’

Peach: ‘Doeskin’, ‘Honey Queen’, ‘Peach Supreme’, ‘Salmon Cream’, ‘Tiger Babies’

White: ‘Centrefold’, ‘Cinnamon Toast’, ‘Misty Eyes’, ‘Mont Blanc’, ‘Moon Baby’, ‘Polar Bear’, ‘Roma’, ‘Sweet Surrender’

Red: ‘Bold Knight’, ‘Ed Brooman’, ‘Lovelite’, ‘Mirabella’, ‘Morden Butterfly’, ‘Olina’, ‘Petite’/’Petit’, ‘Red Carpet’, ‘Red Velvet’, ‘River Rouge’, ‘Rosefire’

LA hybrids
Yellow: ‘Royal Dream’, ‘Suncrest’

Pink: ‘Moneymaker’

Peach: ‘Royal Sunset’

Red: ‘Coral Fashion’, ‘Manhattan’, ‘Royal Parade’

Martagon Lilies
Yellow: ‘Mrs R. O. Backhouse’, ‘Joslin’

Pink: ‘Amelita’, ‘Moonyeen’, ‘Rosalinda’

Peach: ‘Brocade’,

Orange: ‘Orange Marmalade’

Whilte: ‘Tarlton’

Brown: ‘Dalhansonii’

For more information about these and other hardy lilies, or to purchase locally grown lilies, come to the Canadian Prairie Lily Society’s annual fall lily bulb sale at the Mall at Lawson Heights in Saskatoon, Sept 29-30, 10:00am-4:00pm. For sale: Asiatic, martagon, orientpet, trumpet, LA and species lilies of many colours, heights and blooming times. Money raised supports horticulture students at the University of Saskatchewan and Olds College.

Margaret is the past-President of the Canadian Prairie Lily Society (www.prairielily.ca).

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com; www.facebook.com/saskperennial). Check out our Bulletin Board or Calendar for upcoming events.

Chokecherry time!

by Sara Williams

Common names such as “chokecherry” often provide a link between culture and horticulture. Few people would eat chokecherry out of hand, fresh off the bush. It’s simply too astringent. Yet once processed into jam, jelly, syrup or wine (or made into ice cream!), it is excellent and hard to beat.

Both the western chokecherry  (P. virginiana var. melanocarpa) and the easternchokecherry (P. virginiana  var. virginiana) are found here. The species name, virginiana, refers to part of its native range, the state of Virginia; melanocarpa means black fruited. Both species have purple to black fruitbut the eastern chokecherry also has variants with yellow to red fruit.

Found in bluffs, ravines, sand hills and open woodland, chokecherries are large, upright, suckering shrubs with smooth, slender reddish brown branches. Less often, they are small upright trees. Their form is generally rounded and irregular and from 6 to 30 feet tall. They grow rapidly, begin to fruit about 3 years after planting and live for about 40 years. There are several purple-leafed forms whose leaves emerge green and turn dark purple by early summer (e.g. ‘Schubert’).

The tendency of many chokecherries to sucker may be a problem when planted on a smaller property. They are recommended for informal shrub borders, wildlife plantings and shelterbelts, providing food and cover for birds. The white flowers are fragrant, about 3/8 inch across and held in loose racemes 3 to 6 inches long.

Chokecherry fruit (about 1/3 of an inch in diameter) develop in loose racemes. They are flavourful but astringent and contain a single seed (also called a pit or stone). Chokecherries are easy to harvest because each raceme generally holds 15 to 20 cherries that range in size from 4 to 12 mm in diameter. 75% is fleshy pulp and juice and 25% is the seed or pit.

They are usually harvested in the last half of August. Once fully ripe, the fruit becomes sweeter and more palatable. Freezing also reduces the astringency. Unripe fruit contains more pectin. To ensure that your jelly sets, use 1/4 to 1/3 under-ripe fruit – cherries that are more red than dark purple-black.

Although most plant parts contain cyanogenic glycoside prunasin (cyanide), which is converted to hydrocyanic (prussic) acid in the stomach, the meaty flesh of the fruit is not toxic. Chokecherries are dangerous only if large quantities of the fresh fruit are eaten without first removing the pits or when they have not been processed properly. Boiling (as is done with most processing) neutralizes these toxins. Steam extraction of juice can also be safely used.

Chokecherries are also high in healthy antioxidant pigments (anthocyanins) that give the fruit its characteristic purple and red colour and leave stains of the same colour on your clothes and counters. Colour is important. When making jam, jelly or syrup, keep in mind that the black-fruited varieties make a luxurious burgundy-coloured syrup. Red, orange and yellow-fruited varieties make a less vibrantly coloured (sometimes brown) syrup. On the positive side, trees with the lighter-coloured fruit look spectacular in the landscape.

Chokecherries are easy to find in the wild and along riverbanks, or you may wish to plant one. Among the named varieties are:

‘Bailey’s Select Schubert’, ‘Boughen Sweet’,‘Boughen’s Golden’, ‘Canada Red’,  ‘Garrington’, ‘Goertz’,  ‘Lee Red’, ‘Maxi’, ‘Midnight Schubert’, ‘Mission Red’, ‘Pickup’s Pride’,  ‘Robert’, and ‘Schubert.’

Black knot (Apiosporina morbosa), a fungal disease that overwinters in distinctive “knots” on infected Mayday and chokecherry trees, is a major problem, best dealt with by pruning off the galls. Disinfect your pruning tools with a 5% bleach solution or an alcohol-based disinfectant such as Lysol or 90% rubbing alcohol between cuts.

Sara is the author of numerous gardening books, among them the revised Creating the Prairie Xeriscape. And with Hugh Skinner: Gardening Naturally – A Chemical-free Handbook for the Prairies and Trees and Shrubs for the Prairies. Expect Fruit for Northern Gardens with Bob Bors in November, 2017. 

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com; www.facebook.com/saskperennial). Check out our Bulletin Board or Calendar for upcoming garden information sessions, workshops, tours and other events: Plant & Seed Exchange and Bulb sale, September 10, 1-4pm Forestry Farm Park and Zoo. Members Only but memberships (a mere $10) available at the door.

A walk through the Saskatoon Forestry Farm

by Bernadette Vangool

This is part one of a two-part series on the Saskatoon Forestry Farm Park and Zoo.

Nestled in the heart of Sutherland lies Saskatoon’s favourite picnic destination for young families, groups, weddings, seniors and singles. Saskatoon’s Forestry Farm Park and Zoo boasts an accredited zoo, fishing pond, miniature train, gardens, play areas and mature forest. It’s a great place to go jogging in the summer and skiing in the winter.

But the original purpose of this park just over 100 years ago was far different than today. Before settlement, the prairies were an expansive natural grassland. Whatever trees existed were found near water sources – creeks, rivers and lakes – while the plains themselves were covered by native grasses, sedges, flowers, drought tolerant shrubs and cacti. The majority of trees we see in the grainbelt today were planted by our pioneers and early settlers with the help of two nursery stations, one located in the south at Indian Head, and the other in the north, the Sutherland Forest Nursery Station – now the Saskatoon Forestry Farm Park and Zoo.

Prairie settlers came in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Many of them brought familiar plants and seeds, only to be disappointed when so many withered and died because of the harsh prairie conditions. It became apparent that to settle the West and to make the land more hospitable, trees were needed to both beautify and act as shelterbelts for homesteads, livestock and crops.

The Dominion of Canada created the Experimental Farm at Indian Head in the late 1800s to develop and propagate prairie-hardy trees. By 1906, demand for shelterbelt trees exceeded the two million seedlings that Experimental Farm was able to ship out. So in 1913, Sutherland was chosen as the site for a sister station. James McLean, the first Superintendent, oversaw the planting of shelterbelts and propagation fields and the building of the red brick house that was to become his family’s home. Besides propagating reliable tree species, plant breeders developed new shrubs and trees for shelterbelts and for the beautification of prairie farmsteads,

Les Kerr, the second and last Superintendent from 1942-1965, had a background in horticulture with a strong interest in wildlife. He concentrated his breeding efforts on hardy, ornamental and disease-free shelterbelt trees and shrubs that would provide birds with habitat as well as fruit and seeds. He worked with caragana, elder, plum and other fruit trees.

Along with producing trees and conducting research, one of the Station’s functions was to act as a demonstration landscape to show what could be grown in this climate. Ash Avenue, planted in 1914, is still visible if you walk past the Kinsmen playground on your way to the trout pond. There is also still a row of bur oak as well as a small apple orchard from those early days. Now mature, this is the landscape we enjoy today.

In keeping with this tradition, the Saskatchewan Perennial Society developed and maintains two gardens. The Meditation Garden, found on the former site of the foreman’s house, is an informal, restful garden featuring a sunny border, a dry streambed, a bog garden and a shady area under an old Manitoba maple tree.

A short stroll brings visitors to the adjoining Heritage Rose Garden. This one is a tribute to the early prairie plant breeders who collected, selected and hybridized hardy ornamental plants. It includes ‘Sutherland Golden’ elder, ‘Goldenlocks’ elder, and ‘Fuchsia Girl’, an apple seedling of ‘Royalty’, all developed by Les Kerr. The original lilac and caragana hedges enclose the two gardens.

Monthly during the summer, the Friends of the Forestry Farm House host free guided leisurely walking tours through the park, identifying tree species, discussing shelterbelt use and function, and talking about the history of the remaining buildings. Mark your calendars for our next (and last for the season) tour on August 27, starting at 2:00 pm.

Bernadette is an avid gardener and a board member of both the Saskatchewan Perennial Society and Friends of the Forestry Farm House (www.fffh.ca).

The red brick superintendent’s residence at the Saskatoon Forestry Farm.