Hello Prince Albert! Since the summer started with some delicious BC wines, I thought it would be appropriate to finish the summer off with another pair of amazing wines from the Okanagan Valley. As a big fan of Riesling, I wanted to find something to taste side by side and I came across the Ehrenfelser varietal from a VQA sub-region of the Okanagan Valley called Lake Country (named from its close proximity to Lake Okanagan). It was an interesting comparison trying a dry Riesling (Quail’s Gate) and an Ehrenfelser (Gray Monk) and it was the perfect way to enjoy the warm weather of the past week. What can you expect from this relatively unknown wine? Let’s take a look and a taste!
The Ehrenfelser grape varietal is believed to have been cross-bred from Riesling in Germany around 1929 but its parental lineage cannot be 100% confirmed. What is known is that this grape was created as an alternative to Reisling due to its high yield potential and resistance to both frost and disease. One unforeseen consequence of this genetic crossing is that the Ehrenfelser grape tends to have lower acidity levels and higher sugar levels than Riesling. This means that the Ehrenfelser grape is featured more often as a blending component and less of a stand-alone single varietal. In fact, in Australia, the grape is used mainly for blending with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc to add body and acidity.
Like many of the grapes that originated in Germany, Ehrenfelser is an aromatic varietal with a pronounced aroma and fruity/tangy style. Although it has less acidity than Riesling, the sweetness levels bring a satisfying intensity and serve to accentuate the fuller, fruity flavors. While the intensity levels are generally high, the complexity of both flavors and aromas compared to Riesling are simple. I noticed this when sipping the Gray Monk as I found myself getting slightly bored after 6 or 7 sips of the wine.
Riesling and Ehrenfelser grapes first came to BC from Germany in 1968 and are considered pioneer white grapes in the Okanagan Valley, constituting many of the initial plantings in the region (at the time). Several wineries make wines from Ehrenfelser including blends and single varietal options. Keep an eye out for wines from Summerhill, Checkmate or Cedar Creek wineries if you like this type of wine. Currently, the Ehrenfelser varietal covers an average of 74 acres of vineyard space in BC, but some plantings can also be found in states like California or New York. You likely won’t find this varietal in the USA section anytime soon, but you never know where it may pop up.
Germany still accounts for the highest levels of vineyard plantings around the world with over 230 acres of Ehrenfelser, mostly concentrated in the Pfalz or Rheinhessen regions. Interestingly enough, you won’t find much of this varietal in the German wine section which is still dominated by sweet Riesling wines. As stated earlier, the Ehrenfelser wine tastes flavorful but simple; for that reason, I recommend pairing it with foods to enhance your tasting experience. Spicy foods like curries, noodle bowls (Pho), salad rolls (with peanut sauce), Asian dishes and fatty/salty foods are the best options, but desserts can also make for harmonious pairings so also consider creamy cheesecakes, sesame balls (with bean paste filling) or freshly sliced tropical/stone fruits.
As we feel the heat fade from the days and the leaves begin to change, our wine tastes may follow suit but for now, we still have time to enjoy the summer warmth and the delicious white wines of the Okanagan Valley. These wines fall into the $30-$40 range but the quality can certainly be tasted and if you choose the right food pairings, it doesn’t take much more to have a classy, elevated experience. Here are my VQA wine picks of the week!
Gray Monk Ehrenfelser 2022: (VQA Lake Country Okanagan Valley, BC). Medium-dry white, pale lemon color. The fruity nose features juicy scents of freshly crushed apples, apple juice, apples skins, sweet flower blossoms, spring meadow and orchard pears. This wine pops with flavor from the first taste with medium-plus acidity, medium-minus body and tangy, flavorful fruits like tropical lychee and sweet/floral honeysuckle. Similar to biting through an apple and its skin, the wine brings nectar-like sweetness quickly balanced by a touch of bitterness (along with light tannins). The fruit fades into the background as the bright acidity, apples, pears and stone fruit take over. One of the biggest highlights here is the elevated intensity and concentration of fruit flavors on the mid palate. Even though the wine is flavorful and intense, it does tend to taste simple and one-note after several sips. Food pairings excel with this type of wine however, so consider serving cheesy buffalo dip and tortillas or spinach and cream cheese-stuffed pastry puffs. Very good! $34, 10.8% ABV
Quail’s Gate Dry Riesling 2021: (Okanagan Valley, BC). Dry white, pale lemon color. Intense aromas of fresh rubber hose/bouncy ball, granny smith apple, bright citrus, metallic oyster shell, green pears and limestone/granite make the mouth water in anticipation. On the palate, the wine tingles the tastebuds with mouthwatering high acidity and a light body. There is a surge of flavor on the tongue with plenty of green apples, green pears, zingy limestone, and citrus peels which make the mouth pucker slightly. Concentration is medium-plus so the acidity seems to be the star, carrying into the long finish of granite stone, green fruits and a hint of that interesting metallic or rubbery taste. It’s quite refreshing when the acidity cleanses the flavors of fruit, mineral and citrus from the mouth as it leaves the senses at full attention. This wine paired exceptionally with spicy corn empanadas, Filipino/Vietnamese spring rolls or bacon-wrapped scallops. Let’s be honest, anything with bacon will be delicious! Very good! $34, 13% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
