Wine Time with Aaron the Wine Guy

Hello Prince Albert! The country of Chile is known for producing all kinds of high-quality international grape varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, but did you know that it also makes its own emblematic signature wine? Chile is the world’s biggest producer of a delicious grape/wine known as Carmenere. Where does this grape come from and why should you take notice?

Carmenere is known to originate in the Medoc region of Bordeaux, France and this varietal, aka Grande Vidure was one of the six original grapes of Bordeaux (which has since expanded to included at least 16 grape varietals). Imported into Chile around the 19th century, it was originally confused with Merlot and was often blended to the point where many wines reached a ratio of near 50/50 (50% Merlot, 50% Carmenere). This style of blending gave a unique taste and style to the wines of Chile and helped the country and wine producers make a name for themselves on the international stage.

While at least 9000 hectares currently grow in the Central Valley in Chile, it was once most famous in France where it was an ideal blending partner for grapes like Merlot, Cab Sauv, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Carmenere is currently very rare to find in France since the disease phylloxera (a disease of the vine roots) wiped out nearly every vineyard in France in 1867. This grape varietal can now be found in several new-world regions such as Argentina, California, Washington and Oregon as well as some old-world areas like Italy in the Friuli-Venezia Giula and Veneto provinces.

Like any other grape, the climate and surrounding area where the fruit is planted have a drastic effect on the final quality and favor profile of the wine made from Carmenere. For example, the wines of California, Argentina and Chile tend to taste fruitier and fuller while wines from Washington, Oregon and Italy tend to be lighter with more subtlety. From genetic testing, it has been hypothesized that Carmenere has a parental lineage with Cabernet Sauvignon and can take on some of the qualities of Cab Sauv like medium acidity, flavors of blackberry/black currant and a deep-purple pigmentation to the skins and final wine product.

What makes Carmenere a worthwhile wine/varietal is the availability (there were at least 20 to 30 options in the Chilean section at a quick glance), price point (many options under $20 and between $20 to $40), and the accessibility of flavors. Carmenere is an ideal option for foods from the BBQ, roasted meats, charcuterie platters, and all kinds of meaty, fatty snacks but my personal favorite lowkey pairing is Hawkins Cheezies (I know I’ve mentioned this many times, but you can’t beat a classic!).

The two wines this week missed the mark slightly as the Casas del Bosque 2019 lands on the bitter/sour spectrum of flavors while the Adobe Reserva 2021 tastes inexpensive, simple and lacks intensity and concentration. This being said, an aerator or decanter does a very good job of elevating the fruity flavors of both wines and I considered bumping the Adobe Reserva up to a “Good” rating since it tasted better after sitting for an hour or two. Both wines come from high quality regions in Chile, but at their price points ($26 and $20), they still taste like entry-level wines.

For some better options, check out the Carmen Gran Reserva, Vina Tarapaca (my personal favorite), Errazuriz Max Reserva or Kai by Errazuriz (this one is quite pricey and jumps to at least $80 per bottle). I think you’ll enjoy the typical flavors of blackberry, blueberry, smoke, bell pepper and bacon. Here are my wine picks of the week!           

Casas del Bosque Carmenere 2019: (Rapel Valley, Chile). Dry red, deep purple color. The nose has a fruity, meaty quality with aromas of plums, balsamic raspberry, blackberries, bacon, red grapes, meat sear and a wisp of smoke. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with medium-plus intensity and medium acidity. Oaky, bitter notes are prominent with a background of dark fruit (grapes, blackberry), burnt meat ends (think BBQ), plant stems, plums and black currants. The medium tannins grip at first but fade away, leaving a delicious finish of black tea leaves, sour plums, bell peppers and smoke. The concentration of the wine is enjoyable with some fruity depth but overall, the profile is on the sour/bitter side. This wine will perform much better with a salty, fatty snack on the side and reveal its fruity nature by cancelling out the bitterness. Good! $26, 14% ABV

Adobe Reserva Carmenere 2021: (D.O. Calchagua Valley, Chile). Dry red, deep purple color. The bouquet of this wine is simple and fruity with medium-intense scents of jammy blueberry, dark berries (cherry, blackberry), green pepper, hints of smoke and a mocha/mint blend. A bit light on the palate at first, proper breathing time brings out the fruitier character of this wine with flavors of blackberry, blueberry and raspberry. While decanting aids immensely, the fruit flavors still taste muddled or mixed together. Intensity and body are both medium, but the concentration is a bit low, meaning I was always searching and hoping for more flavor and intensity to come forward. Medium tannins leave a pleasant texture on the tongue, but the mid-palate is on the weak side. The short finish brings a bit more life to the wine with a zesty, saline taste but the telltale sign of a cheaper red wine rears its head with flavors of bread and yeast. Tastes fuller and fruitier with dried meats or earthy, crumbled cheeses. Average! $20, 13.5% ABV     

Cheers and thanks for reading!

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