Hello Prince Albert! With cold weather around every turn and snow piling up everywhere, you’d think I’d be drinking all kinds of fruity, heavy reds to warm up, right? Wrong! I’ve been mentally transporting myself to warmer climes with crisp, light white wines and eating foods that remind me of the mediterranean. This has become an all-important necessity to remind myself that Spring and Summer are coming and that even though I have 1000 shovels full of snow still ahead of me, warmer days are ahead! With this thought in mind, I noticed many bottles of Pinot Grigio in the Italian section popping up recently and I decided that I’ve ignored the grape varietal for far too long. Are you a fan of Pinot Grigio? Let’s take a look!
Trends in the liquor store come and go and one of the exciting prospects of privatized liquor stores is the opportunity to try new and interesting products. Back in the day (15-20 years ago), government stores (SLGA) kept the Italian section very simple. Chianti, Orvieto, Riunite and maybe some nero d’avola or cheap blends were commonplace. As new stores opened and the SLGA was ushered out, the shelves became much more diverse with never-seen bottles like Gavi di Gavi (white wine made with Cortese grapes), Vermentino, Barolo, Barbara, Montepulciano and so many others. The trend I am noticing now is moving back towards the direction of the product lines of the SLGA; more focus on affordable easy to drink options and less drive towards complicated, expensive wines.
At a quick count, the number of Pinot Grigio bottles in the Italian section has jumped from 5 or 6 to 15 to 20! This is not your everyday basic “Product of Italy” Pinot Grigio either, but a specific Italian DOC which was elevated in 2021 called “Delle Venezie”. As we’ve come to learn in this column, wines with specific designations or quality control legislation tend to offer better return for your consumer dollars and it is good news that there are so many wines to try from. The words “Delle Venezie” indicate that the Pinot Grigio was grown and bottled in the Northeastern regions of Italy known as Trentino, Giulia, Veneto or Friuli-Venezia. This DOC in Italy is known for producing Pinot Grigio with fruity notes of pear, apple and lemon with a mineral-driven core. Besides that, these wines are often quite aromatic and crisp with high levels of acidity.
What I like about seeing these wines on the shelf is that they are mostly affordable ($20 to $30 per bottle) and they are extremely food friendly. Some may consider Pinot Grigio to be simple grapes/wines and while this is generally true, simple doesn’t mean bad. In fact, the flavors of the 2 wines I tried this week were delightfully refreshing and since the complexity is low, I could easily sip them without needing to overthink. Like a decent lager beer which I can quickly pick up and satisfy my thirst with, the Pinot Grigio wines of the Delle Venezie DOC are flavorful, satisfying, well-balanced and easy to plan around foodwise.
Why don’t we see expensive Pinot Grigio? These types of wines are meant to be drank young and fresh and since they don’t require aging, they can be produced quickly and easily, meaning consumers get the benefit of tasty, simple wine without the hassle and cost of extended aging or pricey packaging. Pinot Grigio is briefly aged or settled in either concrete or stainless-steel tanks so the need for costly oak or barrel programs is removed. Pinot Grigio doesn’t take the flavor of oak on well so it would be a waste anyway.
Love or hate Pinot Grigio but take another look at the Italian section and consider trying a bottle or two from the Delle Venezie DOC. The Gemma di Luna was fruitier with more apparent pears and sweetness while the Mezzacorona was classically dry. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Gemma di Luna Pinot Grigio 2022: (DOC Delle Venezie, Italy). Off-dry white with a pale lemon/straw color. The nose is fruity and mouthwatering with fresh pears, pineapple and citrus. On the palate, the wine delivers a fruity dose of slightly sweet pears and lemons as well as tangy citrus fruits. Light bodied with high acidity and a zippy, refreshing style that jumps with flavor and finishes quickly. The simple flavors land mostly on the front and mid-palate of the tastebuds, but the flavors are lively and fresh which makes each sip a pleasure. There may not be much depth or complexity to the wine, but it is very easy to drink and will pair easily with shrimp and scallop dishes, lemon chicken or baked walleye with a fine herb crust and asparagus or broccolini on the side. An easy sipper at an affordable price! Good! $22, 12% ABV
Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio 2021: (DOC Delle Venezie, Italy). Dry white wine with medium lemon color. The nose has an excellent intensity with bright citrus peels, tangy tropical fruit (pineapple) and hints of green apple. To the taste, the wine is light and sharp with medium-plus acidity and crisp, refreshing notes of lemon peel and lemon fruit. The tangy character of the wine sticks to the front and sides of the tongue, and the mid-palate is full of citrus flavor with a delicate backbone of zesty mineral. While the flavors are simple, the intensity hits the spot, and the lemon and mineral rock flavors make the perfect contrast for creamy seafood dishes like shrimp alfredo. The wine finishes quickly, leaving a slight buzz of acidity and lemon. Extremely food friendly, consider pairing with lemon and pea shoot risotto. The score drops slightly due to the lack of complexity and the short finish, but I would pick this one up again to compliment a meal or share with friends and guests. Good! $25, 12.5% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
