Hello Prince Albert! What comes to mind when someone mentions the term “fruity”? This simple word can mean completely different things to different people. For instance, when I hear “fruity”, I immediately picture the flavors of Juicy Fruit chewing gum. Others may remember the smell of Grandma’s candy dish as it was opened (the fancy crystal kind of course) while for others, the word can conjure images/smells of baked fruit cake or Hubba Bubba grape bubblegum. It is profound how our core experiences in life can revolve around the memories of taste and smell and what is even more interesting is how these thoughts and memories can be so unique, from person to person.
Another correlation that people often make with “fruity wines” is that they are all sweet. In some cases, this is true and in others it is not. It really depends on where the wine comes from and what blend or varietals were used as well as whether the winemaker decided to leave residual sugar in the wine or not. The trend of leaving traces of sweetness in the wine are associated mainly with new-world wines like Cab Sauv from California or the dark, heavy sweet flavors found in Shiraz from Australia, but there are just as many examples of dry “fruity” wines from the old world too. Consider the wines of Chianti which almost always contain flavors of cherry, or the classic flavors of Bordeaux, which feature blackberries and cassis. In Spain, you’ll find many wineries using the Grenache (Garnacha) grape which produces flavors of strawberry, cherry and pomegranate.
What are the differences in fruit flavors between new-world wines and old-world wines? One of the main differences between the flavors of fruity wines from old-world or new-world wines is the style and character of the wine itself. In other words, wines from the USA, New Zealand, Argentina and Australia are often in your face and very bold with high intensity and brilliantly fruity flavors. They often favor intense flavors over complexity or subtlety. Old-world wines (Italy, France, Spain, Greece) tend to be less intense but the layers of flavor and subtle use of oak will usually offer a more contemplative experience and allow for more creativity for food pairings because of their flexible style.
Let’s look at some specific examples from Canada (new-world) and the Cotes du Rhone in France (old-world). The Diabolica Wicked Red is certainly intense, and the candied fruit flavors jump from the glass and tantalize the tastebuds, but I find that the remaining sugar in the wine covers any subtlety that the wine could have displayed. The use of sugar in a wine can be used by producers to trick consumers as it can easily cover up blemishes or less-than favorable flavors in the wine. For instance, if the flavor of cherry is not hitting right in the wine, a spot of sugar can help the flavors along nicely (with the downside of saturating the palate). This is a similar tactic which is also used in the restaurant industry, just replace the use of sugar with MSG (a salty additive which makes food taste great).
The Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhone has been on the shelf in the French section for decades at this point in Prince Albert and it is a classic example of an old-world wine which is fruity but dry (remember, fruity doesn’t automatically mean sweet). The classic style of winemaking in this region employs GSM grapes (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre) and the Southern Rhone valley is very hot, producing thick-skinned grapes, packed with fruity flavors. Since the producers usually don’t leave residual sugar in the wine, the result is medium to full-bodied wines with some fruity intensity but not the boldness or exuberance of the new-world wines. The upside to this is wines of complexity or subtlety with fine oak and spice flavors (which are not covered up by sugar). No matter your personal preferences, I’m sure you’ll find a fruity wine you’ll love!
Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhone Reserve 2022: (AOC Cotes du Rhone, France). Dry red, deep purple color. The nose is full of dark cherries, rocks on a hot day, plums and black grapes. To the taste, the wine is less intense than the nose indicated but the medium-plus concentration makes up for it with flavors of dark/black stewed cherries, cooked plums, hints of mineral rock, cocoa and dark, juicy grapes. Medium body with medium acidity, the wine sits nicely on the palate and tastes great with light, earthy snacks or medium-intense dried meats. Silky on the tongue with medium tannins and a slight bite of warming pepper and vanilla spice on the long medium-length finish. Once the palate adjusts to the flavors, it becomes very easy to drink and was delicious with parmesan cheese, smoked cheddar and breadstick appetizers (skip the marinara as it overwhelms the wine). Simple, fruity and smooth: a French classic at a decently affordable price. Good! $24, 14% ABV
Diabolica Wicked Red 2021: (VQA Ontario, Canada). Medium-dry red, medium purplish/ruby color. The nose is simple but fruity with candied fruits (raspberry, cherry) and an interesting twang of rhubarb and pepper. On the palate, a blend of sweet, candied fruit hits the tastebuds first with cherries, plums and raspberries while the mid-palate carries on for quite some time, eventually transitioning into notes of pepper on the medium-length finish. One of the highlights of this wine is the intensity level and smooth, medium tannins combined with the sweet, fruity flavors. Even though the wine is pleasant enough, it is a bit too simple for me and despite the medium-plus body, it still tastes and feels a bit light on the tongue for the flavors. Medium-plus acidity adds some nice zip to the fruit flavors. Pair this Canadian red with simple, BBQ’d foods like ribs, blackened chicken, brisket or poutine. Good! $23, 12.5% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
