Hello Prince Albert! After the excitement of the wine premier a couple of Saturdays ago, my wine appreciation level was at a high point; it became important to find a couple of wines to talk about to extenuate those feelings of wine awesomeness and that search led me directly to one of my favorite wine producing countries in the world, Italy! While I enjoy the wines of all the regions of Italy, Piedmont is my absolute top pick due to the quality and types of grapes they use to make wine. There have been a number of bottles of Barbera d’Alba showing up on store shelves recently, and once I spotted the Francone Superiore, I decided to focus on this amazing grape this week. What is so special about Piedmont and Barbera?
Piedmont is a region in Northwest Italy which primarily produces Nebbiolo and Barbera grapes for wine production. It is also the region known for making Asti Spumante or Moscato d’Asti (sparkling wines from the Asti region). You’ll probably recognize names like Barolo, Barbaresco (both made from Nebbiolo grapes), Barbera, Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba (all made from the Barbera grape). This region also produces a white grape/wine known as Cortese (found in wines called Gavi). In fact, Piedmont has the most DOCG-designated wines in all of Italy, a testament to the quality of wines produced in this region.
There is quite a difference between the different types of Barbera, but the flavor profiles generally focus on high acidity, cherry flavors and lower levels of tannins. Since the Asti region is slightly warmer than the Alba region, its wines are often fruitier with less tannins. These wines are meant to be consumed fairly young and while they are indeed delicious and refreshing, they aren’t as successful at cellaring compared to the wines of the Alba region. The wines of Barbera d’Alba focus more on achieving the perfection of balance between acidity, tannins and developing flavors meaning they often require more aging in the bottle. Patience is well-rewarded in the wines of the Alba region however, since they can develop into complex wines with enough time.
Some of the earthy flavors in Barbera d’Alba come from the limestone/clay soils of the Langhe hills while the acidity is easily achieved due to the altitude and elevation of the hilly vineyards surrounding the town of Alba. The Barbera d’Alba area overlaps into Barolo and Barbaresco and since Nebbiolo grapes grow there as well, Nebbiolo can also be added into wines labeled as “Barbera d’Alba”. 85% of the wine must be made from Barbera grapes while the remaining 15% can be filled using Nebbiolo grapes (adding an extra level of quality and texture to the wine).
The Francone wine has an extra term added to its label called “Superiore”, and this can mean a couple of things. First, if producers see that they will have a good year with higher yields, they can declare that vintage as a “Superiore” meaning an increase of .5 to 1.5% to the alcohol level (usually leading to a fuller body and riper, juicier flavors), and second, the wine has been aged at least 12 months before release (4 months must be in oak). You can certainly notice the bump in quality with the Superiore over the Cenciurio when tasting them side by side.
There is so much to say about Barbera but the best thing to do is go out and try some yourself! My recommendation is to skip the basic Barbera and grab either an Asti or an Alba. Don’t forget the food pairings! Barbera is amazing with all types of food, but especially pasta. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Francone Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2020: (DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy). Dry to off-dry red, deep purple/violet color. The nose is packed full of intense bush berries, sour dark cherries, black grapes, cherry juice and sweet flowers (violets). From the first sip, this red is full-bodied and intensely fruity with deeply concentrated flavors of dark cherries/berries, cherry juice (with natural tartness), an earthy, sweet licorice note and pepper warmth at the end of the mid-palate going into the finish. The acidity is tart and fresh (medium-plus), which perfectly compliments the fruity flavors and balances the wine exceptionally while mellow, medium tannins add just the right amount of structure. The juicy character of the wine can’t be overstated and even though the wine is full and fruity, it all is refreshingly cleansed by that precise acidity. Long finish of pepper and licorice with the flavors of dark berries soaking into the tongue. Italian wine at its best. Incredible to pair with many types of foods including duck, burgers, pasta, seared pork chops in hunter’s sauce or chicken parmesan. Very good! $46, 15% ABV
Bric Cenciurio Barbera d’Alba 2022: (DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy). Dry red, deep purple color. The notes in the bouquet are oriented towards warm spice (cloves, pepper, cinnamon), sour cherry fruit, hot rocks and earth/clay. This wine tastes a bit lighter at first and the flavors seem to be hiding behind some of the warm spice, but a half hour of decanting transforms the wine into a medium-plus bodied red with quick notes of upfront cherry fruit and high, grippy tannins. After the cherry flavors leave some tangy acidity in the mouth (medium-plus), the spice rushes in midway through the mid-palate, warming the tongue with a variety of spices (pepper, cloves, anise and cinnamon). While the wine sits around medium intensity, the flavors have some great concentration (medium-plus). This means you need to take your time and search out the flavors a bit. The finish is long and spicy (warm without the bite) with the grip of the tannins and returning flavors of sour cherry which waters the mouth. I kept coming back for the blend of sour cherries and spice. Very good! $66, 14.5% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
