Hello Prince Albert! Is there really a difference between the tiers or levels of quality within European wines? For instance, does a wine with a DOCG rating from Italy taste better than a DOC-designated wine? For that matter, does a basic “Bordeaux” red carry the same quality level as a “Grand Cru” or a “Premier Cru”? The answer always comes down to the taste. As much as we would like to analyze a wine by its label, the proof is illuminated when the wine reaches your lips and tongue.
Realistically and technically, wines of a higher designation (with stricter standards) should result in better wines, but there have been instances where I have simply preferred the less illustrious or hyped wine due to its simplicity (and lower price). A relevant example is a DOC Chianti I tried many years ago: the specific vintage had a fruitier flavor profile with just the right amount of peppery spice. It was a delicious combination. That same week, I had tried a DOCG Chianti as well and even though the DOCG wine was more complex and technically balanced, I found myself thinking of the DOC wine while I was sampling the DOCG (sacrilege, I know).
Let’s move this thought process into French wine or with the example I used earlier, Bordeaux. With Bordeaux wines specifically, the difference in quality is immediately noticeable when comparing a basic “Bordeaux” red with a “Grand Cru” or “Premier Cru” red (I am excluding the Bordeaux Superieur wines as they are very similar to basic Bordeaux wines). When I think of basic Bordeaux red wine, I picture flavors and scents of red forest fruits, slightly astringent tannins and an overall “woodsy” character. With the right foods, these wines are definitely palatable, but they lack a certain finesse or refinement.
A Grand Cru Bordeaux is an entirely different animal altogether, but it still shares some of the woodsy elements of basic Bordeaux wines. These wines have a deeper, richer level of quality and you’ll find flavors/aromas of cassis, blackberry, earth/cocoa and cigar box spice (cloves, cedar, pepper, tobacco leaf). Grand Cru/Premier Cru wines also differ texturally since they are often full-bodied with smooth yet grippy tannins. The tannins also have more savory or varied flavors, contributing complexity and the ability to age gracefully to the wine.
Site selection also creates a large contrast between Bordeaux and Bordeaux Grand Cru/Prem Cru wines since the “better” wines are almost always planted in the best soil with the best aspect towards the sun (this in turn results in better grapes and better wine). Grape selection is another important factor when understanding why Grand Crus are so expensive. Consider that Grand Cru wines are mainly hand-picked using as little machinery as possible, the grapes are hand-sorted before pressing, then the grapes a delicately crushed as not to release too many astringent flavors or bitterness into the wine. Fermentation uses the best strains of yeast (chosen to be compatible with the specific grapes being fermented) and the maceration is closely supervised with many techniques being employed to create wines full of intense flavor and power or wines of delicate uniqueness, meant for contemplation and analysis. Finally, oak selection of these wines is top notch which results in beautifully finished wines.
Basic Bordeaux wines can come from any area within the region, use any combination or percentage of grape varietals (from the 6 main red and 3 white varietals) and opts for the less-expensive winery production methods such as machine harvesting, aggressive crushing and pressing (resulting in more bitterness or harsher tannins). The oak as well as the subsequent aging in that oak is designed to be affordable for mass production leading to less-complex flavors and lighter-bodied wines.
A trend I’ve noticed in the liquor stores in Prince Albert is the disappearance of affordable Bordeaux. This has left customers and stores with a conundrum: stock the shelves with cheap Bordeaux wines which may sell here and there or take a chance on expensive wines which deliver quality but at the cost of higher prices and less movement on the shelves. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Moon Harvest Riesling 2024: (Landwein Rhein, Germany). Medium-dry white, pale lemon color. The nose is fruity and mineral-toned with ripe peaches, green apples and limestone rock. On the palate, the flavors are quite simple but flavorful, fruity and mouthwatering. Peaches, apples, granite slate rock and limestone combine with sweet, tangy citrus to create a gentle but delicious flavor profile. Acidity is high but not sour (more on the tangy side) and the body is light, which makes this white extremely food-friendly and easy to drink on its own. The intensity of flavors is medium-plus and the acidity keeps all the flavors clean and fresh, making this Riesling a good choice to pair with spicy foods (masala), Chinese cuisine or Greek foods like falafel, Greek salad and fresh pitas. The quick finish leaves an impression of candied citrus peel and limestone. Good! $14 (375 ml), 8.5% ABV
Chateau Bel Air Laclotte Bordeaux 2023: (AOP Bordeaux, France). Dry red, deep ruby color with hints of garnet. The aromas on the nose are woodsy with red fruits (cherry, raspberry), hints of plum and light pepper and oak notes. To the taste, the wine has medium-intense flavors of forest fruits (red berries), hints of earth and a light bite of pepper and vanilla spice. While the wine is simple and complexity is low, this red is a good option to sip on throughout the evening or with red meat due to its easy-going character. Tannins build up slowly yet never push over the medium-plus mark while gentle medium acidity gives the wine a bit of lift. Medium-bodied with a medium-length finish of black pepper and vanilla. Flavors of red fruits and the texture of tannins stick to the tongue and cheeks. Good! $24, 13% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
