Hello Prince Albert! With the prices of wine going up every year (like everything else), it is becoming more important for consumers to get the most from their wine dollars. Nobody wants to spend $30 to taste an average wine but the hard truth is that wines which used to cost $8 are now $12-$15 and those that used to cost $12-$15 are now $20-$25. Where do we go to find consistently reliable value from our wine purchases?
Value can mean different things from person to person, but some grape varietals tend to be reliably delicious no matter the price or where they come from. For instance, when looking for a simple but flavorful red wine at a low price, I’ll search out Carmenere, Malbec, Grenache, a Cotes-du-Rhone (France) or this week’s featured red from Filari Galasso, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (both a grape varietal and region). I’ve discovered that at almost any price point whether it is $15 or $40, Montepulciano makes an ideal choice for simple sipping or complex food/wine pairings.
Filari Galasso has been featured in this column before when I talked about an older vintage of their Montepulciano and when the brand was used for the Italian feast at Amy’s for Wine Wednesday several years ago. Montepulciano is known for its round, grapey flavors with tight tannins and excellent intensity. While the wine may be on the simple side at the lower price points, it is still a satisfying wine to pair with foods like grilled sausages, roasts and earthy cheeses.
Checking out the label of the Filari Galasso, you’ll notice a term on the neck and front/back labels called “DOP” which stands for Donominazione d’Origine Protetta. This term includes both higher-quality classes of Italian wine, DOC and DOCG and indicates that the wine has been certified as authentic. This means the wine has a specific geographical origin, strict regulations of production, quality control inspections and a sense of terroir, displaying its origin and traditional flavors from the first sip. You may also find wines with “IGP” on the label; these are still quality wines, but their production and quality control is much less stringent. Whereas DOP wines must have all stages of production completed in a single geographical area, IGP wines can be certified when only one stage of the production process occurs (growing, vinification, bottling) inside a geographical area. In other words, the standards for DOP wines are higher than those for IGP wines. On another interesting note, DOP certification can also be found on other agricultural products from Italy like Genoa salami or Parmesan cheese.
Now let’s take a quick trip to France to taste another mini bottle of wine from the Festive Cheer advent wine calendar I mentioned a couple of weeks ago. This week, I pulled a bottle of Chardonnay from the AOP of Pays d’Oc in France. The term “AOP” (appellation d’origine protegee) is the newer term for “AOC” (appellation d’origine controlee) which follows similar standards as Italian wines with stricter regulations and production methods all from specific geographical areas. I won’t lie, this type of Chardonnay is often what can put people off the grape varietal and label it as “ABC” (anything but Chardonnay). This specific mini bottle (375ml) of Chardonnay has a lovely nose and non-offensive flavor, but the wine is incredibly neutral and ends up tasting weak and watery. I believe this is also where my distrust of some Pays d’Oc wine comes from as some of these wines tend to lack real character, intensity or amount of unique, noteworthy flavors.
Taking into account the price for this mini, a full bottle would cost around $30, when it really tastes like a $5 wine (I know, this sounds harsh). While I would skip this wine next time, there are some amazing European white varietals to keep an eye out for: Semillon, Albarino, Pinot Gris, Trebbiano, Cortese, Macabeo, Sauv Blanc, Verdejo and Chenin Blanc. These varietals are easily found and provide great value for freshness, flavor and authenticity. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Filari Galasso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2021: (DOP Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy). Dry red, deep ruby color with purple hues. The nose is bold and fruity with stewed plums, black cherries, tomato vine/leaf, raspberry balsamic and herbs. Fruity flavors impact the palate with medium-plus intense dark cherries, sweet plant stems, jammy plums and high, woody tannins which stick to the cheeks, tongue and teeth. This red is round and flavorful (medium body) but restrains itself just enough to not become a fruit bomb wine, retaining its classical, Italian character. Dark fruit flavors are tasted upfront followed by a fruity mid-palate balanced by medium acidity. Once the fruit subsides, the gripping tannins kick in, adding a layer of peppery heat on the long finish. This wine can be neutralized by tangier foods so pair it with hearty meat dishes like stews, gravies, roast beef or roast lamb with seasonal fall vegetables. Delicious simple flavors, great price. Good! $20, 12.5% ABV
The Conductor Chardonnay 2023: (IGP Pays d’Oc, France). Dry white, pale to medium lemon color. The medium-intense nose is simple and delicate with fruity aromas of tropical fruit (guava, pineapple), ripe apples and citrus peels (orange, lemon, grapefruit). The intensity is much lower on the palate (low intensity) with a mild yet smooth mouthfeel. Flavors open with a slightly watery taste of citrus peel and pineapple which quickly move on to a mid-palate of apples and citrus fruits. This light-bodied white has medium-concentrated flavors which fade quickly and medium-minus acidity, meaning the wine is gentle and soft to the taste. The finish is almost non-existent with hints of fruit lightly fluttering around the tiniest amounts of floral flavor. While the aroma of this wine is fruity and inviting, the flavors and textures end up tasting lackluster and somewhat boring and watery. Average. $13 (375 ml), 13% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
