Hello Prince Albert! Are you a fan of Merlot or the wines of Bordeaux but are interested in branching out to try something different? You may want to consider stopping by the Chile section and grabbing a few bottles of Carmenere. You’ll find plenty to love in these bold, flavorful red wines which actually originated in Bordeaux, France. Let’s take a look at Chilean Carmenere!
Carmenere is similar in many ways to Merlot as it is often medium-bodied with juicy notes of red fruits (raspberry, cherry and strawberry) and the higher-quality wines offer more subtle/complex notes of cocoa powder or fruit candy. Since the grapes have a mid-length ripening season (unlike Syrah, Cab Sauv), the skins don’t develop as many tannins, meaning the resulting wines are smooth with just enough grippy textures to satisfy. The Carmenere grape was historically planted in the Bordeaux region of France near the Medoc subregion and used for blending with the other grapes of Bordeaux.
Carmenere is genetically related to the Cabernet Franc grape, and you’ll notice some similarities such as the telltale notes of herbaceous green peppers or peppercorns. The varietal was exported to Chile to start new vineyards in South America. Growers thought they were planting Merlot but DNA analysis in 1994 confirmed the actual identity of the grape. This accidental occurrence was a stroke of good luck since the root mite phylloxera struck French vineyards soon after, wiping out almost all of the European wine stocks and vineyards. Grapes grown in new world countries like the USA and Chile were resistant to phylloxera and by grafting Franch plants with new world varieties, an entire industry was saved (this is true not only for the Carmenere grape but all grapes in Europe).
The majority of Carmenere (or wine grapes in general) come from the Central Valley region in Chile which makes world-class versions of Cab Sauv, Carmenere and Sauvignon Blanc (among others). This area is known for its hot, scorching days combined with many cooling effects from the surrounding hills, mountains to the East and the ocean to the West. Since the region is so hot (despite mitigating factors), cooler years actually provide the highest-quality vintages (the hottest years can render the wines flabby or too full, knocking them out of balance). The valley stretches over 75 miles from the Andes mountains to the Pacific and there are several specific zones ideal for a vast array of quality wines like Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, Carignan and even sparkling wines but the main focus and most accoladed grapes are still the 3 grapes I mentioned initially.
It seems logical that the more water you have, the better the grapes would grow, but in some sections of the Colchagua Valley, many vineyards have switched to dry farming due to lower levels of well-water or lessened access to the Tinguirrica River which flows at the Northern boundary of the region. What is dry farming? Essentially, dry farming is where the producer allows their grapes to grow without the use of irrigation or any systems that provide water to the vines. The soil is meant to provide all the nutrition and moisture needed and this results in the vines growing and reaching deeper into the soil to survive, resulting in hardy, superior vines that produce concentrated, flavorful grapes with naturally lower levels of sugar.
At the end of the day, Carmenere is a wine you should be trying out. They are affordable, delicious and extremely friendly to pair with food, cigars, chocolate and spirits. The price ranges can be quite affordable (there are still plenty of $20 options) but you can also find expensive options ranging from $50 to $200. The Lapostolle Grand Selection impressed me with its full, round silky textures and hints of complexity. Fire up the BBQ and taste some Chilean wines! Here are my wine picks of the wweek!
Carmen Carmenere Gran Reserva 2021: (DO Colchagua Valley, Chile). Dry to off-dry red, deep purple color. The nose is layered with dark fruits, plums, pepper, bacon, green pepper, black licorice, blueberries and tobacco. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with medium-plus fruit notes of cooked plums, blueberries, licorice and a slightly meaty edge backed by tight, medium tannins. Medium acidity with a round, grapey mid-palate and medium concentration. Hints of green pepper and spice peak through, along with fruit candies and savory tobacco. The textures are smooth/fruity and while the wine is not overly complex, it makes an excellent companion for BBQ foods or stews. The medium-length finish provides a light pepper tingle with fruity flavors. With more intensity and complexity on the palate, this wine would have rated higher, but it is still an excellent value. Good! $25, 13.5% ABV
Lapostolle Grand Selection 2020: (DO Colchagua Valley, Chile). Dry red, deep ruby color. The medium-intense nose has an elegant aroma of perfumed raspberries and strawberries, toasted tobacco, blueberries, cigar box spice (cedar, pepper) and a core of dark fruits (blackberry). To the taste, this red is full-bodied with medium-plus intensity and a full, round mid-palate of raspberries, currants, blackberries, plant stems and cocoa earthiness. The textures of the wine are silky and smooth with a beautifully balanced grippy edge of fuzzy tannins (medium-plus). After the lengthy mid-palate, toasted tobacco and warm pepper mingle with oaky spice and red fruits. The wine stays on the softer side with medium acidity and there is an exceptional balance between lively fruit, oak spice and tannins. This is an ideal wine option for pairing with a variety of foods, beverages and cigars, such as the Flor de las Antillas Maduro (made by My Father cigars in Nicaragua-$22), roast beef cooked with bay leaf and served with jus and roasted vegetables (save the beef for the next day and have it on a crusty bread with grilled peppers and onions). Very good! $40, 14% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
