Hello Prince Albert! I’ve talked about white wines quite a bit for the last few weeks so now its time to step back into red wine territory and discuss a style of wine which has shown up a couple of times in this column: GSM wines. What is a GSM wine and why should you taste as many as possible? Read on!
GSM is an acronym for the three red grapes used to make this delicious wine which include Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre. The names of the grapes can change slightly depending on the country (Mouvedre/Mataro/Monastrell or Grenache/Garnacha) and the ratio of grapes can differ wildly as well, but one thing is certain, the flavor and quality for the price point makes it one of the most delicious and satisfying wines you can pick up. If you’re considering firing up the grill or you want to put a charcuterie board together, take a look around the liquor store and grab a bottle or two of GSM.
Three important countries to focus your GSM search on are Australia, Spain and France. Full-bodied, fruity and smooth, these red wines deliver a huge punch of flavor and the lower acidity levels make them very easy to share with friends. One of the most famous areas for GSM wines is the Cotes du Rhone in France which is most well known for its Chateau-neuf-du-Pape AOC. In fact, the Chateau Pegau is located only a few miles South of Chateau-neuf-du-Pape meaning it tastes very similar to those types of wines which often cost upwards of $60 for entry-level products.
Both wines this week are from France and while the Chateau Pegau has the prestige of the Cotes Du Rhone AOC, the Tenebres (French for darkness or obscurity) is from the Pays D’Oc region which is the largest wine-producing area in all of France. From my experience, many of the wines from the Pays d’Oc IGP (a term used for larger, more general regions) lose some character or tend to become more average due to the fact that the grapes can come from so many areas and quality levels. The Tenebres however, surprised me with its plush and fruity flavors, especially for its sub-$30 price point.
Comparing the colors of the two wines, the Tenebres is indeed dark with an almost opaque, purple color. Meanwhile, the Chateau Pegau has a noticeable ruby tint with shades of purple. Why is this? My hypothesis is that the Chateau Pegau has a higher ratio of Grenache (60% according to the label) which adds the ruby color while the Tenebres is composed predominantly of Mouvedre or Syrah (both grapes produce purple wines). Higher quality wines tend to use more difficult grapes in their blends to stand out from the other brands and the Grenache grape is sometimes known as “La Maldita” or, “The Devil’s Grape” since it requires a ton of heat and long growing/ripening periods (requirements which are perfectly met in the Cotes du Rhone region).
I’ve realized I have a bias for wines from the Pays d’Oc region and I tend to expect less from them for some reason, but the Tenebres changed my perspective, and I will be trying more of them from now on. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Tenebres G.S.M. 2022: (IGP Pays d’Oc, France). Dry to off-dry red, deep purple color. The nose is intense and jammy with ripe dark fruits (cherry, brambleberry), sweet spice and smokey engine oil. The wine has a pleasant texture from the first taste with a medium-plus body and ripe, lush dark fruits. The medium-plus intense palate is full of flavorful, jammy fruits with a soft, round mouthfeel and medium tannins which stick gently to the edges of the tongue. The highlight of this wine is the fruity midpalate full of blackberry, brambleberry and cherries followed by a medium-length finish of sweet spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla). The flavors are simple but delicious and intense. Some smoke and sweet oak can be tasted in the background while medium-minus acidity contributes enough zip to keep the wine balanced. Pair with braised ribs in a savory, smoky sauce, slow-cooked moose/beef, steak with black peppercorn sauce or cheese-stuffed meatballs in a light marinara sauce. The simplicity and lack of complexity drop the score slightly, but this is a great value for the quality. Good! $24, 13.5% ABV
Chateau Pegau Cuvee Maclura 2022: (AOC Cotes du Rhone, France). Off-dry red, deep ruby with a purplish tint. The bouquet is layered and complex with many scents and aromas that take time to open up including bush berries, fruit fields on a hot day, ripe currants, blackberries, black cherries, dark earth/cocoa and hints of barnyard funk (a very good thing). This wine explodes like a fruit bomb on the palate with a swell of intensely flavored dark fruits and a full-bodied, round texture. Plush, soft and plummy with medium acidity, the wine impacts the tastebuds and doesn’t let up with a long, fruity midpalate of jammy fruit followed by a very long finish. Medium-plus tannins begin to show up after the midpalate and continue for minutes at a time with licorice, oak, cloves, dark grape/fruit skins and intricate spice (peppery and sweet at the same time). This wine is beautifully balanced, and new flavors seem to pop up as the wine is savored like steeped tea leaves, dark earth and juicy fruits. Pair with all types of savory foods or meats but be aware of the acidity level of the paired foods. For example, pizza or tomato-based sauces can overtake the wine due to its lower acidity. Try lamb shank, grilled steaks, salty dried cheeses or ossobuco with fresh herbs. I absolutely loved this fruit bomb wine, but the flavors will not develop much further so drink now. Very good to Outstanding based on the price and quality. $44, 14% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
