Hello Prince Albert! It’s time to go back to Portugal this week for more deliciously unique white wines! While Portugal is probably most famous for its Port and Vinho Verde wines, there are a plethora of sub-regions and interesting grape varietals to seek out. I discovered a high-quality brand from the Dao region called Adega de Penalva, and even though there is quite a gap between the price points of both wines, they managed to impress me equally.
The Dao region has been producing wine since at least 1908, but it wasn’t until the 1990’s that it officially received DOC status. This temperate area is a sub-appellation of the Beira Alta wine region which contains two other sub-regions (Dao is the best-known of all three). High quality red and white wines are produced here, and the region is sometimes alluded to as the “Burgundy of the South”. The red grape Touriga Nacional (the principal grape in Port wine) is believed to have originated in Dao but you will also find the white grape Encruzado (found in both blends this week). You will also find grapes like Alfrochero, Barcelo, Baga, Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) and Jaen (aka Mencia).
As you may know, the soil in which grapes grow has a huge influence on the quality and style of the subsequent wine made from those grapes and you will find that the sandy top layers with granite sub-layers contribute a tangy minerality, saline acidity and floral citrus to white wines while the reds tend to be peppery and soft with beautiful tannins and flavors of dark fruits like blackberry or damson berries. The textures of red and white wines from this region typically have a silky mouthfeel which lends balance and drinkability.
The acidity found in both the red and whites of Dao is derived from the temperate year-round climate which has a diurnal swing (difference between the highest and lowest temperatures of the day) between 35 degrees Celsius to 13 degrees Celsius during hot months. This difference allows the grapes to ripen fully while also retaining mouth-watering acidity.
The “Maceration” wine especially caught my eye since it was produced by soaking or macerating the grape skins with the grape juice. Most white wines will avoid skin-contact with the juice since it can extract unwanted tannins, color or intensity. While the majority of wine consumers like their whites to be gentle, light and easy-going, I applaud wines which employ skin-contact in the process of their creation since they take their own path and display the full flavors of the grapes they are made from. You can easily spot the results of skin-contact maceration in the “Maceration 2020” wine from its unusually deep color (similar to an orange wine), its heightened bitterness which can be off-putting at first, and the increase in intensity and concentration. Most striking of all, however, is the addition of tannins in the wine which leave the mouth with a grippy sensation. Some may not enjoy this grippy sensation but after a sip or two, most will adapt and learn to appreciate its uniqueness. The elevated tannins also make this type of wine extremely suitable to pair with all kinds of foods.
Adega de Penalva also produces the fantastic Vinho Branco 2020 (white blend) which is more affordable and does not contain the tannins or bitterness of the “Maceration 2020”. Despite not being as complex as the $34 white, I found plenty of enjoyment from this blend of Encruzado, Malvasia Fina and Cerceal-Branco varietals. I recommend the Vinho Branco by itself but plan some delicious foods to taste with the “Maceration” wine. Here are my wine picks of the week!
Adega de Penalva Maceration 2020: (DOC Dao, Portugal). Dry white, medium orange color. The nose opens with a fruity character of apples, pears and citrus peel with a floral element of orange blossom and persimmons. Dry and tart on the palate, sour flavors of yellow plum and apple blend with citrus zest and a light, silky body. Medium intensity with medium-plus concentration and zippy medium-plus acidity. Some bitterness creeps in with low tannins (building to medium after several tastes) along with flavors and astringent textures of fruit skins (plums and pears). After the decently long midpalate, the finish is long and pleasant with tangy/zesty orange/citrus zest. The bright acidity clears the palate, leaving a clean taste and sensation however, the bitterness tends to stick to the tongue and cheeks which makes for a challenging experience at first. This wine pairs exceptionally well with mediterranean foods and can handle all types of white meats (seafood, chicken, pork). After a few sips, the quality and balance of the wine come through and confirm that this a unique and delicious white wine. Very good! $31, 12.5% ABV
Adega de Penalva Vinho Branco 2020: (DOC Dao, Portugal). Dry white, pale to medium lemon color. The nose is on the simple side but still entices with lemon peel, citrus, chalky mineral, saline ocean and wet rocks. To the taste, the wine hits the tastebuds gently at first with a light body, citrus peels, lemon, subtle vegetal tones (capers and grape stems/skins) and a lovely saline note that carries a savory touch. The midpalate is long and refreshing with salty sea rock (a hint of sea spray), wet rock and just enough acidity (between medium and medium-plus). Medium-plus intensity delivers a satisfying amount of flavor while the concentration is slightly lower. Light bitter notes from the citrus peel/zest are pleasant and add a tangy/zesty texture, rounding out the flavor profile. I really enjoyed the light buzz of acidity that sits on the tongue after the long, clean midpalate. The finish is surprisingly long which continually reminds the taster of lemon and mineral rocks. With more complexity, the wine would land on a score of very good but ends up at a very respectable good rating. $23, 12.5% ABV
Cheers and thanks for reading!
