Wine Time with Aaron the Wine Guy

Hello Prince Albert! If I had to pick one single country in the world where I get my wine from until the end of my days, it might have to be Italy. There are so many reasons why I love Italian wine, but the simplest explanation is the sheer number of classic wines that originate from this region.

Examples of my favorite wines from Italy would be Brunello di Montalcino, Barbera, Barolo, Asti, Barbaresco, Chianti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and of course, I can’t leave out all the fantastic IGT wines (this category of wine includes super Tuscan) made from Brunello, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Zinfandel (Primitivo), Nero d’Avola, Corvina, Aglianico (and the list goes on and on). There always seems to be something new to discover and this week, we are taking a look at a grape varietal called Negroamaro.

Negroamaro can be translated as black and bitter. It is the perfect description as this sun and heat-loving grape displays dark colors and a thick skin which equals higher tannin levels when pressed and made into wine. Negroamaro is a red grape varietal that grows in Southern Italy, primarily in sunny regions like Puglia or Salento. While the Salento area (on the tip of the Italian heel) has mitigating factors like the ocean to cool its vineyards, the climate of Puglia is hot and dry which results in fuller wines with slightly higher levels of body and alcohol. The Negroamaro grape is perfectly suited to Puglia since it has a long growing season and is also drought resistant with high yields of fruit.

What are you getting when you buy a bottle of Negroamaro? This varietal is under-appreciated by the international wine community as it is often viewed as rustic and is considered the opposite of smooth with higher levels of tannins which can leave a gritty texture on the palate; however, the flavors found in Negroamaro are intriguingly delicious and that gritty texture? I happen to love it as it leaves flavors and textures of toast and biscuit on the palate. You’ll also taste flavors of dark fruits (plums, currants, cherries) along with the occasional medicinal or herbal note.

There are many DOC wines made from Negroamaro but the two wines this week are IGT wines which means they are typically 85-100% Negroamaro if they originate in Puglia or Salento. In these two regions, other grapes are added into the blend including Primitivo, Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Speaking of Montepulciano, the two Negroamaro wines I tasted reminded me of that simple style of wine which is often fruity and grapey. The difference in these wines is the elevated tannins and grittier mouthfeel compared to Montepulciano. 

Even though these wines seem to be less reputable than the big classic wines of Italy due to their tendency to oxidize quickly and thus age less gracefully, they make for interesting sipping wines to pair with a huge variety of foods. Many online articles mention that Negroamaro will pair well with spicy or sweet flavors, but I disagree slightly due to the higher tannins that can over-accentuate peppery or hot flavors while the bitterness is intensified by sweet flavors which the wine cannot match. Grab a bottle for yourself and taste it with some Italian eats. You might just discover a “new” favorite wine. Here are my wine picks of the week! 

Giorgio & Gianni Negroamaro 2022: (IGT Salento, Itay). Dry to off-dry red, deep ruby color with some transparency at the core. The nose has some excellent intensity with a full, juicy medley of berries(dark cherry, blackberry, blueberry and plum). On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied at first with medium tannins and a fruity entry of ripe dark fruits. The medium tannins are silky and fine, coming in near the end of the long, fruity mid-palate. The body seems to build to medium-plus as the wine warms in the hand and the tannins build up as well, creating a smooth texture on the tongue and lips after each successive sip. Subtle spice joins the building tannins on the long finish as well as a flash of pepper and licorice. There are some yeasty/bready notes intertwined with violets/flowers on the aftertaste and medium-plus acidity to keep things tangy. Every aspect of flavor stands out on its own but also blends together seamlessly to create a wine that is very food-friendly and easy to drink. Good Italian wine at a decent price. Very good! $21, 13% ABV

Il Piatto “Pizza” Negroamaro 2021: (IGT Puglia, Italy). Off-dry red, deep ruby color. The nose opens with fruity cherries (dark and red), licorice, earth, black currants, oak spice and mocha/coffee notes. On the palate, the wine seems sharp but fruity at first with a medium body and tight, medium tannins and flavors of cherries, currants and dark grapes. Medium-plus acidity gives the wine some lift and tangy character while medium-plus concentration provides fruity depth. Immediately after the long, fruity mid-palate of tangy cherries comes oak spice, pepper and licorice blended with earthy cocoa notes. The buzz of acidity cuts through the fruit and cherries which leads into a long finish of spice and savory oak/toast. This wine took some time to get going as it was closed down at first, but a half hour to hour of decanting does it wonders by opening the fruitiness and surprising depth of flavor. The intensity and concentration seem to deepen as the wine breathes so give it a bit of time to relax. Pair with a large variety of foods but stay away from anything too sweet as this will negate the fruitiness of the wine and bring out the bitterness (which is perfectly balanced otherwise). Salty foods work best here so go for roasted nuts/pistachios, pizza (skip the pineapple), seared meatballs with tomato/garlic sauce or earthy cheeses. Very good! $34, 13% ABV    

Cheers and thanks for reading! 

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